Pipa

No fancy bars, flash restaurants or expensive suits here. It is the perfect lazy fishing town we were hoping for. The road from Natal to Pipa was like driving through North Queensland with hectares of Sugar Cane lining the road.

We took a local bus that took 2 hours and the Manager of the Natal hotel offered to drive us free of charge to the station. Unbelievably nice people – we tried to pay him but he refused to accept. Jeff comments every day on how incredibly friendly the people are here and I wholeheartedly agree. We could be paying our bill at a bar or getting out of a taxi we negotiated a cheaper price for and they will still shake our hands. We will miss this place.

Yesterday was Jeff’s birthday and we spent the day lounging by the pool, watching movies in our air-conditioned room and had dinner in the coolest little restaurant on the beach. It was dark but the sound of the ocean was very prevalent. We waddled our way back suitably stuffed. We won’t dare weigh ourselves – it’s not only our luggage that has gained a few pounds this trip. :-)


The hotel we stayed in for 6 nights in Pipa was nothing short of spectacular. We managed to get a deal that gave us more than 60% off the normal room rate AND had breakfast included. It was every bit as beautiful as the pictures on the website. We really did have to pry ourselves from the pools each day to check out the beach and town.

Breakfast was like nothing I have ever experienced! Every morning we spent an average of 2 hours there – around 9 we started with fresh fruit and glass of juice, half an hour later we had something hot (eggs, sausages or steak and onions) and toast then their local delicacies (chicken or ham/chs/tom filled pastries and quiche like things) then coffee and cake (there were an average of 7 to choose from!) not to mention the abundance of cookies and bite sized sweet treats in independent jars dotted around the 3 large tables of food. I couldn’t’ help but think of the possible waste each day and what the food could have done for others.


After breakfast, the toughest decision of the day was deciding which pool to swim at – yeah there were 2 to choose from. It was pretty over the top.

On Sunday Jeff went for a wander into town and walked to a point where he went for a swim and got within 20 metres of dolphins swimming. Very cool experience.

The weekends are like walking through a night club in the main street. There is music and people are quite overwhelming. The PERFECT place for 20ish year olds. Jeff’s hoping to bring his sons here one day soon – I think he’d be crazy not to. Speaking of perfect we found the greatest little bar in town we went to a few times before dinner – awesome drinks, bar staff (yum!!) and the best list of reggae music I have heard.


We spent most nights lounging in the hammock drinking wine or vodka and listening (and singing) to music - the photo of my feet was my common afternoon/evening view.

For the epitome of luxury on a backpackers budget in one of the prettiest coasts we have seen, it cost us less than $60 each per night. If only we could stop time and stay longer!!!! I loved Pipa.

The closest thing I have come to comparing these stunning parts of paradise is the Sunshine Coast. I do miss home, but not ready to come back just yet…….

Natal

Natal is a bigger city than we expected. Flying in at night was big, bright and comfortably warm. Our flight was rather delayed so we arrived at our hotel around 1.30am - the friendly reception chap who spoke not a word of English was waiting for us.

Although we could not see it, we could hear the ocean. It was beautiful. We set our alarm in time for the last 10 min of breakfast then made our way into town for a look around.

The town of Natal is pretty unimpressive - first impressions were not great. Months before getting to Brazil and ever since arriving we have heard amazing reviews about this place and Pipa. And when you make it down to the beach, you realise why. It really is stunning.

Just like Rio, the beach is graced with a wide, friendly pedestrian path - also used by motorcyclists, but they are quick to swerve past you. :-) They are littered with colourful market stalls run by such friendly people, that don't push sales, you want to buy from them all. I still can’t believe I did this – but today I bought a pair of those teeny Brazilian bikini sets with briefs aren’t quite a g-string but may as well be – to be clear I bought them for the top which is pretty cool and I have a pair of shorts that can be worn in the water. Unlike other bare backsides EVERYWHERE over here - mine will never see the light of day.

On our second night, it was a super balmy evening so we took ourselves down to the beach and went for a midnight swim – the sea was rough but warm and wonderful.

Looking forward to Pipa we have heard sooooo much about.

Porto Seguro & Salvador

The interstate bus companies here are fantastic (and we hear they are nothing compared to what Argentina offer!). Jeff and I caught an ‘executivo’ bus from Rio to a small coastal town called Porto Seguro. The seats recline back like business class in an aeroplane and there is a cushioned foot rest and snack pack for the journey. The trip was 19 hours and a very pleasant one.



Brazil is the fifth largest country in the world and approx. 840,000 square km larger than Australia. It boasts around 195 million people and the city of Sao Paulo alone is home to 21 million – a touch short of the entire country of Australia. Even though there is a lot of bare land mass between cities and towns, I’m sure you will then appreciate it takes at least 1/3 longer in time to get to each place by road than it does in Australia for the same distance.



We arrived into Porto Seguro just after 3pm and went straight to our hotel. After spending a week in a busy but exciting hostel, we decided to lash out and stay in a pretty flash hotel for a whole $42 (AUD $22ea) per night. It was really lovely place but they had to call for the owner’s son every time reception saw us coming as absolutely no one in the hotel spoke English. But they did try and they were all extremely pleasant and very helpful.



The hotel food was awesome but I think the pool with its bar was the highlight – their cocktails (especially the caipirinha) were pretty damn nice and on the rainy day, we spent it upstairs in their little cinema room and watched a couple of DVD’s – we were never short of anything to do. The beach was amazing – long and quiet with squeaky sand. It was dotted with straw rooved huts and wooden seats, open restaurants and peaceful locals.



It should never be an expectation that people around the world speak English but every day it surprises me how few people in Brazil do. Thank goodness for translation books. When we are unable to communicate with hand gestures or by speech, I have learnt to point to the word in the book that Jeff brought (Thank you!!). My pronunciation of Portuguese is evidently extremely bad – even when I know a word, be it in Portuguese or Spanish – they are unable to understand me. But when they do not speak English they will always find someone who can if they are available.



Another interesting observation is the number of non-speaking English folk here that can sing songs perfectly in English but unable to hold a conversation. Like the Saturday night we spent in Rio. Jeff and I were having a few duty free bourbons and coke when a group of Brazilians sat at the table nearby with a guitar and started pumping out Oasis tunes. We joined in and they invited us to join them at a street party in Lapa. One lady, Mariana, spoke great English and looked after us like we were family. Around 11ish, all 15 or so of us jumped on a public bus, took up the entire back section and one of the guys pulled out a ukulele and we screamed Oasis tunes the whole way (around half hour). The group of friends have been meeting and going to Oasis concerts around Brazil for years. Even when Oasis split, they continued following the transformed group now playing under the name ‘Beady Eye’. You would have sworn they spoke perfect English. The night was like nothing Jeff and I have experienced before and we stumbled home around 4.30am with an arm full of McDonalds. We thought we had a great video of us singing, but can’t find it. Alcohol induced slip of the finger in recording we think. Brilliant, brilliant night!!!



Salvador is a bigger city than I was expecting. After a pretty comfy 12 hour journey on a sleeper bus, we arrived into Salvador around 7.30am and made our way slightly south to the lively beach area of Bara. With its pumping music, beach sport, market stalls and burnt tourists, it was actually little more of what I expected the beaches of Brazil to be like. The atmosphere was alive and fun.

It definitely deserves a mention that a huge and surprising group of talented people we have found do amazing sculptures in the sand. Literally unbelievable pieces of artwork. They start around 7am when the tide is going out then work on them tirelessly all day until it gets washed away.

We were only in Salvador for 2 days but it was brilliant. The weather was perfect. We spent most of our first day walking around the historical town of Pelourinho and checking out the markets. The beach was clean and busy with sunbathers and people playing sport or music. The restaurants are open and full of patrons. I picked up a pair of Havaianas on special for around $6 AUD. They are black and have been branded my new ‘going out’ shoes – the new high heels for the NE coast of Brazil – jeans, dress, bathers, shorts, you name it and they wear them.

We stayed in a very cheap hostel that boasted great reviews, was clean, safe and close to the beach. This morning 15 hot rugby players arrived for the weekend. Not happy about leaving tonight!! It would have been a very entertaining night out. But excited about arriving in Natal.



By chance I decided to check out flights just 3 days ago and found an awesome last minute deal for under $60 AUD to Natal which means we gain an extra night and it’s actually considerably cheaper than a bus. Woohoo. Another 9 days in paradise.

Know of any jobs in Rio??

I am absolutely serious – a 3 – 6 month contract would be absolutely perfect. One of the few places I have visited that I would actually be excited to stay long term would definitely be Rio. I would have to be disciplined to overcome the language barrier I am finding very difficult to learn and understand but as a place to live and work it would be amazing. Very few places do not compare to the little part of paradise I have found and love on the Sunshine Coast.

The sun, warm weather, beaches, white sand, smiling happy people, fun relaxed atmosphere, good business opportunities, great bars and beer, impressive eye candy and plenty of places to exercise are all part of what I would consider my ‘choice’ living requirements . I could also continue my volunteer work. My primary intention for travelling to Brazil was for a break, a holiday between volunteering periods. But after speaking with a number of interesting locals, it is surprising how many Favella’s (slums), orphanages and places through the country of Brazil that are seriously struggling. Individuals, families and communities are in grave need of assistance just like so many other places in the world.

The day I arrived (Tuesday), I caught the public bus and met this amazing lady (and local) called Julia. She had just flown in herself from her brothers farm just outside the capital of Brazil - Brisilia and was heading home, literally 4 streets away from where I was staying - posh beach suburb called Leblon. Stunning place, just 2 beaches down from Cococabana.

After the 90 min bus ride, we swapped emails and arranged to catch up the following day. She had a car, is training to be a travel guide and was keen to show me around. We had an amazing day visiting historical sights and watching hang gliders launch themselves off the side of a cliff with incredible views, perfect place for the adrenalin rush. We then drove to where they landed on the beach and had a beer, watching a dozen or so land.

Before gettting to Rio, I had been in contact with Dioga, a chap I spent 4 months in Kenya with last year. We had been in touch since working together and he had been living in London but recently relocated to his home town, Rio. When I arrived on Tuesday, he was waiting for me at the hostel. It was amazing to see him again and we spent the entire afternoon/evening catching up over several beers. Great night. After a travelling for 16 hours and drinking, I slept like a baby. Excited for Jeff's arrival in just 2 days.

Thursday night Jeff was due to arrive and after a few intense hours where flights were diverted and late, he just made it, albeit later than scheduled. Every day has been lounging on the beach and seeing the sights. The most impressive was the Christ - views are simply breathtaking. We also scaled up the side of a mountain on the other side of the city and had our first coconut on Copocabana beach.

Soooooo much more to boast about but must post....... :-) Having an amazing time. I love Rio so very much. Although my stay is so far brief, Brazil is everything I had hoped. More.

Last days in Peru

The sunsets in Peru have really lovely but it's difficult to be in the right (safe) place at the right time and having dinner prepared for us at 6.30pm (right on sunset) it can be tough to catch. This was taken one Sunday night in a taxi on the way back from the beach.

Most places in Peru have flush toilets but as the sewer system is so inufficient, you are unable to flush toilet paper down the toilet – not even in the airport! Everything gets popped into the dustbins provided next to the bowl. At least they flush right! :-)



My last day at the Wawa Wasi in Pachacutec was fantastic – we played with bubbles and I taught them Heads, Shoulders, Knees and Toes, Knees and Toes……. Bahaha – I can’t believe how much fun it was! The mamma in turn tried to teach me their version – oh boy, I am not a fast learner but the kids found it very amusing.



I decided to change my days and keptFriday free to help a couple of the teachers take the ‘top’ performing 4th Grade children (also from Pachacutec) to the Zoo. Really happy I did – they needed the help, I was able to take plenty of photos and the kids had the best day – having very few opportunities to ever do anything like this, it wasnt' surprising to hear many say it was the best day in their lives. It was also one of the longest bus trips a couple of the kids had ever taken. The journey was an hour and 15 min there and the same back. It could have been a combination of emotions and food (return trip) but 4 of the 10 kids threw up on the bus. No warning either – it was like a chain reaction.





On Saturday night we all went out for a night on the town. Megan, a volunteer who knows fluent Spanish and has been in Lima for a few months, knows a number of locals. One of those guys is Franco – he is friends with a couple of people in the entertainment business and was able to get our names on the most exclusive club in town – Gatica’s. Despite the salsa dancing (or lack of it in my case) we had a brilliant night. Having not been out in quite some time, I had a nanna nap in the afternoon and managed to see the entire night through. A lot of fun. Looking forward to going back there when I am next in lima.



Lidia’s (host mum) daughter and husband who now live in America, also have a charity in Columbia. They too are host families for IVHQ (volunteer organisation) and have ongoing volunteer programs. I am hoping that Columbia will be one of my next destinations.



Every Sunday Sole (house maid) has the day off so we make sandwiches for lunch and Lida orders Pizza for dinner. Last Sunday, we all decided to cook for the family - macarooni and cheese, bruchetta, salad and grilled marinated chicken then peanut butter filled/chocolate covered pretzels, home made apple pie and ice cream for dessert. It was a great success - we cooked for 21 people. Fantastic, we were all super happy.

I serioulsy can't believe I leave in just a couple of days.. grateful I will be returning before my flight back to Australia. Will be wonderful to see the kids and family again.

Brazil - here I come!!!!!!

My day typically starts at 7.15 for breakfast and out the door by 7.45. If I am in Pachacutec, Wawa Wasi (baby house) we catch the public bus and the journey takes about an hour and 15 minutes. We generally arrive just in time to help finish feeding the children breakfast - I usually feed Andrea. I am always greeted at the door with shouts of ‘Buenos Diaz or Hola Natarsha’ whether they have food stuffed in their mouths or not. Andrea is blind and so well behaved. It’s a bit of a struggle for her to feed herself on her own just yet and the training required is too great for the mother as her attention must be divided between all 8 children.



They usually finish breakfast by 9.40, we wash our hands and play until ‘Fruit’ time at 10.30. We peel and dice the fruit and what doesn’t land in their mouths, we scrape from the floor and throw away (unlike Kenya). It’s then play time again, usually with some dancing to music then lunch at 11.50. The children aren’t’ always hungry but we persist in encouraging them to finish as much as possible as they may not be receiving much dinner. We then wash them, change their clothes and pop them to bed. It’s typically around this time (approx. 1pm) that Paolo, our local coordinator, collects me. They all kiss me goodbye and sing ‘Ciao Natarsha….’ I love it! We then walk to collect other volunteers at other Wawa Wasi’s and bus it back for our own lunch – around 2.30pm. After lunch we make our way to either San Antonio’s to teach and play with the kids or the baby orphanage for feeding and changing.




This volunteering program has been very different to that in Kenya. Only being here a short while (3 weeks) my aim was to simply experience each placement and fight any urge to improve their systems. In Kenya I went nuts because the level of poverty everywhere was blinding and I felt that the people who really needed help were not receiving it. The situation in Peru is different. They do need help but the level and type of assistance required I feel is different. The greater population have homes and education but their ability to improve their home situation is limited. They feel isolated and ‘stuck’. It’s been difficult to identify where I would start if Peru was a place I would commit too in providing assistance. I believe it’s the physiological barrier that is the greater problem as most families do have the basics. I would definitely concentrate my energy on Pachacutec where the level of unemployment is high and home situation desolate.

The 3 government funded orphanages (Semillitas, San Antonio and Divino Jesus) clearly have the equipment and resources to make it a functional and well looked after program – they do however need help with staffing and providing as much love and affection as possible. Most of the children are unable to successfully feed or care for themselves properly, so meal times it is a very demanding event.




Public transport in Peru has been interesting. One of our drivers went cross country over kerbs and footpaths in peak hour and hit a pole.

I have visited the San Francisco Monastery and Catacombs – having never experienced Catacombs first hand before, I was not only intrigued but very impressed – it was hard to believe the mountains of bones were real. It holds incredible history. The Church library was like nothing I had seen before either, disappointed that photos were strictly not allowed.

As luck would have it – the very weekend I arrived in Lima, the city was boasting their Peruvian version of the Oktoberfest. Less than 3 weeks after experience the ‘real’ one in Munich for the first time, I found myself standing at the giant beer structure looking into the only tent they had on offer. It looked amazing – the beer was flowing, German food plentiful and tables full of drunken dancers. Yes the Peruvians sure know how to party!!!

The beaches close to where we are staying in San Miguel are not at all nice. They are polluted, smell, full of rubbish and house many homeless people. I was shocked to witness a part of the world that could easily boast paradise. After witnessing that, it was equally as shocking to learn that not even 20 South of this mess is the beautiful seaside of Mira Flores. The coastline is stunning and people were bathing like the beaches at home. It is a very pretty part of Lima and home to many millionaires. When you know where to look, there are many beautiful parts to this city.




Unlike Kenya, it is difficult to communicate in Peru as very few people speak English. I have had 3 Spanish lessons which I have found challenging. It is going to take a lot more practice than I had hoped or anticipated. I am hoping by the end of my time in South America, I will be able to at least communicate at a basic level.

The Inka Markets here are amazing, a few bartering skills make it a very fun experience. You can literally pick up anything – I adore their clothes and handmade leather trinkets.

The hospitality where the volunteers are housed is extraordinary. We receive 3 meals a day and they are exceptional – mostly traditional Peruvian dishes. There is not one thing in the last 3 weeks that I have not thoroughly enjoyed. The only thing I am looking forward to when leaving here will be to lose a bit of weight. It has been way too easy to over indulge. I will otherwise miss it terribly. It has truly been an amazing experience and living with 10 other women has been incredible. We all get along remarkably well. I will miss them. I will miss this house. So much for a bikini body for Brazil. 

I am happy to report that the charity ‘That’s What Friends Are For’ is still moving in the direction of gaining full charity status. It has been a lengthy process, but thanks to Michelle Anderson of Complete The Look Events, it is still happening…. She has been absolutely monumental in this whole entire process, there is absolutely no way this could have happened without her. Even with me on the other side of the world, Michelle is managing to keep things moving – Michelle, thank you!! Fingers crossed we receive positive news soon. And if her business, a new baby and following up charity status is not enough, Michelle is also managing to coordinate a charity event to raise money for That’s What Friends Are For – if you are on the Sunshine Coast on the 17th of November and enjoy the Twilight Series please support the movie premier of the first instalment of Breaking Dawn. For full details, please visit my Facebook page or contact Michelle Anderson on 0422 356 422.



Last week I did my first (and last!) salsa dance class. Most of the girls I live with do them 3 times a week and are remarkably talented. I on the other hand have 2 left feet and found the whole experience quiet daunting. It was good for a laugh though.

Next week I am travelling to Brazil for 1 month for a holiday with a friend. From there I will travel to various other countries, where I will explore other volunteering opportunities before making my way back to Peru. A major goal for this entire trip was to experience third world countries and identify the potential for That’s What Friends Are For to work with existing or establish new projects. I am keeping an open mind.

Volunteer placements - Peru

My first impression of Peru was how I would have expected Mexico to look like. The desolate landscape, block style homes, catus plants and people - the way they dress and look.

My experience has been very different to volunteering in Kenya but equally amazing. The day I arrived, Lidia (our fantastic host mum) outlined that there were 4 different orphanage/school projects and that I would visit each one before deciding what my program would be. The joy of working here is the flexibility in times and placements. If we choose, we could mix and match the days and projects, which I did to experience each with my limited time. I will only spend 3 weeks in Peru before leaving for Brazil, but I will be back in January.



Three of the four placements are government funded making them a place that is very well equiped and cared for. The fourth is in a slum area an hour and a half out of Lima called Pachacutec (above). It covers a massive area and is divided into 4 sections. The one area we work in is home to 12 different Wawa Wasi's (baby homes). In each home there are 8 children and one carer looking after all of them. Most of these children have mothers but they are unable to feed or care for them properly.



The local charity organisation 'Tarpuy Sonqo' we work with are amazing. They have single handedly established these baby homes and arranged for their meals and necessary fundamental programs like basic hygene (washing their hands and brushing their teeth) and currently construction of a bathroom (photo with some children, mamma and Lidia).



I enjoy helping out in each of the placements, but there are 2 I am definitely drawn to. The baby houses at Pachacutec (toddlers) and the baby babies at Divino Jesus - oh my gosh, they are so perfectly teeny, rounds and sooooo squeezable I never want to put them down. Some literally days old - thier umbilical cord is still healing.



Pachautec is also the only place they allow photos to be taken. The videos below are a rare occasion where we could film due to the official opening of their new dental clinic. The kids are beautiful and very well cared for. Their ailments vary significantly - blindness, pralasiation, water on the brain, down syndrome, cerebal palsy and many more disabilites they dont' have names for. There are numerous therapy rooms catering for speech, the senses, physiotherapy and limb massage.



If our spanish language is poor (and mine is!!), we are sometimes limited to the rooms we can help in, but we are welcomed to help out in all - especially at feeding time. The director, of INABIF was there for the opening which made it a big deal. The photo of the volunteers with the director and report of the opening can be found here; http://www.inabif.gob.pe/portalweb/noticia.php?n=edf4371b4715f3185e543cfa6c1c956e&i=1 and a radio announcement (in spanish) of the day can also be found here; http://willax.tv/seguridad/nuevo-consultorio-odontologico-para-ninos-discapacitados

The young lady in the below video is Carla, she has autism and was the very first patient to the Dental Clinic. Both the doctor and nurse were gentle and nurturing - they kept reassuring her through the process and blowing her kisses.