MACHU PICCHU

I had actually experienced mild attitude sickness in Arequipa so I was geared up with coca leaves, aspirin and other local herbs in preparation for the height in Cusco and Machu Picchu.

When first arriving in Peru, I had no intention of doing Machu Picchu but it’s a very big part of why so many people visit Peru, so thought I’d better check out what all the fuss is about.



After speaking with a number of people, I decided to do the trek through the Inca Jungle in the Luna Valley, avoiding the mass of other tourists as much as possible. I booked my flight from Cusco to Lima last week for the 23rd of December. As I did not receive the email ticket confirmation as promised, I decided to visit the airlines principal office when I arrived in Cusco to confirm the reservation. I found out that the booking was made incorrectly (strictly for Peruvian Citizens) and that the fare on that day was no longer available. I had to change my flight to the following day, thankfully still making it to Lima in time for Christmas with the kids.



I had initially booked the 3 day trek to Machu Picchu but I was able to change it without penalty to the preferred 4 day journey after learning my flight was a day later.

The first day started at 7am with a walk to meet other eager strangers doing the same adventure. We hoped on a mini bus and started the 2 hour steep drive up the mountain for our 52km downhill mountain bike ride. As predicted, it was cold and raining and the protective gear and bikes were in grave need of repair. One of the bikes was unrideable so the guide decided we could make it down without him.



The ride was a slow, wet and muddy. It took about 5 hours to reach the bottom where we packed the bikes and drove to lunch which was also where we were to stay for the night. It was 3pm and we had the choice to chill out for the afternoon or go white water rafting. I decided to stay in but those who went rafting had a great time.

We had dinner around 7 and most people went out drinking (it was a very small town, population of 100 people, but of course, there was a pub). One young lady had a little too much and vomited all over the dorm floor en route to the toilet. I was grateful for being in another room.

We were up and at breakfast by 7 and on the road by 7.30. Day 2 was the toughest – it was a 12 hour day and 9 solid hours of it were hiking. Some of the terrain was flat and relatively easy going but most of it was uphill and tough. But the views were definitely worth it.



We stopped at many little huts and villages along the way where locals make their money selling food and water to struggling tourists. One of them had a pet monkey. Very cute but cunning little blighter. It reached into one guys pocket and grabbed some money – refused to give it back then ate it.

At the end of the day, we were rewarded with a dip in the hot springs. At the pools we were given the choice to stay
there and pay $4 to get a bus to the next village where we were staying, or walk 1 hour uphill. I walked, but 8 out of the 11 in our group stayed.

At dinner I learnt that I was the only one who had not signed up for the zip line the following morning. While eating they showed a video of what to expect and I was hooked! Not knowing what it was and deciding on the 4 day trip at the last minute, I chose not to partake in any of the ‘extras’ at the time. Had I not have done the zip line; I could have hiked the extra 3 hours it took to meet the rest of the group.

The zip line was like a giant flying fox that stretched high over a deep valley and the biggest surprise of all was that there weren’t just 1, but 6 cables to scream down. It was so much fun I squealed with joy for the first 2 and then on the 4th where I hung upside down then let my arms and legs hang hundreds of metres above the gully being held only by a cable at the waist. What a rush!



The meals on the trip were really great. Breakfast was bread and jam with omelette or pancake and lunch and dinner always started with a soup or salad and bread, then a main meal and juice. The accommodation was also pretty good. Hot showers were scarce, and the rooms were noisy but nothing earplugs and a tough up attitude couldn’t fix.

Day 3 was the zip line in the morning and 4 hour trek to Aguas Calientes (the base town for Machu Picchu) in the afternoon. We had no clean or dry clothes left. Each day it rained – not terribly heavy but a steady drizzle to ensure we were wet through. Our shoes were soaked from the first 5 min into the ride on the first day, but no one seemed to mind much.



The afternoon on the 3rd day flew by – although our legs were a little tired and sore from the day before, the rush from the morning’s activities and anticipation of reaching Machu Picchu was noticeable. Most of the walk was flat and followed train tracks. At one point the tracks were blocked off by a massive landslide that they were working double time on to clear. It happened less than an hour before our arrival. From Machu Picchu the next day we would see the distant clearing the mud had made down the side of the mountain. It destroyed everything in its path – must have made a terrifying sound. To bypass the mass, we took a dense muddy track through the bush in a storm and passed some homes that escaped the onslaught by less than 100 metres.



Shortly after getting back on the track, the rain had begun subsiding when we saw the brightest rainbow I have ever seen in my life. The colours were so brilliant, vibrant and clear I was speechless. It was magical. We must have stood there for more than 10 minutes as it reached its full strength before fading. Once again a photo does not demonstrate the intensity of what we saw with our naked eye, but I’m counting on it that you can imagine.

We knew we were getting close to Aguas Calientes when our guide pointed out
where the ruins were on top of a mountain and the towering peak to its left knows as Huayna Picchu. We reached the town on sunset. Pretty little place.

We had dinner, was given our briefing for the following day and a packed breakfast to take with us. We went to bed listening to the heavy rain outside. Our alarms were set for 4am.

At 4am it was still raining hard out our windows. We packed our breakfast, jumper, water and cameras then slipped on our cold soggy shoes and headed for the mountain. I almost ran to the entrance I was so excited. As days went on, I heard more stories of the amazing life of the Inca people and their fascinating history.



In addition to the ruins of Machu Picchu, we had the choice to climb the neighbouring mountain called Huayna Picchu where the views were reported to be stunning. There are only 2 entrance times and a limited number of people that are permitted to enter Huayna Picchu. Half the group had tickets at 7am and the other half at 10am. I had the earlier time which meant exploring Machu Picchu after.

Not everyone chose to do this steep mountain. It is known as a gruelling climb and many were too tired. Even though I had heard others speak of how steep and slippery the steps were, I did not fully appreciate just how tough it would be. It is high, very high and very steep. There are only 400 people allowed to summit this peak each day. This is due to a tourist dying just a few years ago after a struggle broke out with too many people fighting for a view of Machu Picchu.



It was wet and cloudy all morning but the breaks in the clouds gave way to a stunning view above the ruins. There were numerous viewing areas and the higher we ascended, the more beautiful the picture.

It took about 45 min to reach the top. I tried not to look back; it only sent my heart racing before its time. One man in his 50s was taking each step on his backside willing himself to inch his way down. It was obvious he was petrified of heights.



When it was time to descend, I found myself taking very slow steady steps. They were very steep, very small and very slippery. I don’t recall if I have ever felt afraid of heights but my legs were shaking terribly. I was in a little cave at the top taking shelter from the rain and wind when I heard someone above me slip down a large rock. I think that put a little fear into my system.

Reaching the bottom of Huayna Picchu was exhausting but invigorating. I definitely felt relief and also a sense of accomplishment. I was ready to explore the ruins I had spent the last 2 hours admiring from above.

It was nothing short of remarkable. I was completely captivated by its beauty. I kept shaking my head thinking how wrong I had been not actually wanting to see the ‘too touristy’ place of Machu Picchu. I am not entirely sure why or when I changed my mind, but the influence of the other girls in the volunteer house played a big part in convincing me and for that I thank them.



Thinking back, even now, I am in awe of the beauty I witnessed at Machu Picchu. I had no understanding and no expectation of the ruins and its history. I believe this is why I found it so impressive. Our guide walked us though the broken rooms and corridors explaining it in such detail that to close my eyes, the visions were vivid. The city stands out on top of a mountain with splendid views stretching for miles over the valley. How the Spanish never found all those years ago it is a miracle.



By about midday, the rain stopped, clouds cleared and the weather was absolutely perfect for finding a nice spot looking over the ruins to soak it all in. We spent most of the morning looking around on our own but met up at various points and left the mountain together around 3pm. Most took the bus down, tired, but a guy and myself decided to walk. Well we started to walk, then jog, then picked up the pace almost beating the bus down which had to descend the long windy road with sweeping bends. I had to stretch at the end. I hadn’t run in a long time.

After getting back to Aguas Calientes, we found a nice little restaurant for lunch and pass the time until our train left for Cusco at 7. Having checked out of the hostel that morning, we were not able to have a shower but we were mostly dry by this stage and the weather was warm.



The train was surprisingly flash and comfortable. We all had first class tickets with windows surrounding the roof and walls of the cabin. It was a shame it was dark outside but a really nice trip all the same. About an hour later we arrived at another station where we took a bus for another 2 ½ hours to Cusco. It was just after 11pm when we parted ways with quick goodbyes (it was very cold) and each walked back to our accommodation. I slept soundly.

I woke up around 7 to the ladies in the hostel preparing chicken for Christmas dinner. The aromas were mouth-watering. After breakfast and checking my email, I headed for the airport. I was on the plane by 11am bound for Lima to see my host family, other volunteers and kids in the orphanage for Christmas. I was excited.