Friday, August 26, 2011

An action packed week


Allow me to introduce you to Somar! I met her at the Mt Kenyan retreat a few weeks ago. She is Australian and started her own NGO in Kenya 2 years ago. I cannot believe how similar our backgrounds are! We come to Kenya through the same organisation for the same reasons just 12 months apart – we were both billeted out to the very same Kenyan host family and similar volunteer programs – and a program each of us only stayed at for a few days before finding our own projects. Our passion to help was greater than maintaining already established systems. I found FreMo’s Medical Centre and Somar found street boys who were scrounging through rubbish heaps looking for food and sniffing glue to suppress their hunger.

We hit it off the first day we met, probably because we both share the same passions, speak at lightning speed, can have 4 different conversations going at once while still completely understanding each other. Uhh, it was heaven.

Last weekend we had planned to join a group of donors from the UK and make our way to Dadaab (Nth Kenya) as a larger group. Unfortunately they did not call Somar with enough time for us to purchase and portion the food so they went as an independent team but also with a very well-known MP here (Sumrah). As their fortune (or not) would have it, they were actually able to cross the border to Somalia because of Sumrah's presence. On Monday, just hours after they got back, we all got together over dinner (about 16 of us) and they shared their stories. My heart stopped at what they were telling us. The closest thing they could relate their experience on the border too was the movie ‘Black Hawke Down’. 10 year old boys with machine guns, ammunition strapped to their chests and snipers on the ridge - complete and utter devastation. For their security they had the army escort them all day and put themselves between them and the snipers. Intense.

So instead of going to North Kenya, we visited the boys shelter Somar started. It is home to 22 boys about an hour East of Nairobi. Somar stays there regularly but I was the first other than herself to stay since it’s opening almost 2 years ago. We had a brilliant time. They are adorable kids but hearing their stories tore me apart. Most of them were molested either by their families or on the streets. They all sniffed glue and ate others rotten left overs for years. They have all come along way, but as you can imagine, not all of them made it. Some returned to the streets. It’s a sad reality Somar has had to face. The boys absolutely adore her and call her Mum. She loves it!


On the way to the shelter we stopped by the shops to get a few supplies. Somar was just saying that bread and milk was their favourite meal (and what she took them on the weekends as a treat) and how much she wanted to do fairy bread for them. I nearly knocked over a food stand when Somar shrieked the very moment she found the sprinkles. Passers-by thought we were crazy jumping around, laughing and clapping our hands like 3 year olds. We then maintained our newly branded ‘hardly normal’ reputation, sat down for a coffee, cleared the table, laid out the bread and started buttering it then plastering the slices with sprinkles. Haha, I will forever laugh at the thought. What an awesome day. The boys were funny – although the look and taste was strange, they loved it. All schools are currently on holidays, so on the way to the shelter, we stopped by a few of the boys who were visiting their extended families. One of them was Steven, a 14 year old boy who has been abused and in the last 2 years, practically started school from the very beginning. He leaned into Somar’s window of the car and whispered ‘is that the one going to Brazil?’ Yes!she said, surprised that he remembered a passing comment to a group of them weeks ago. His face beamed. He is obsessed with Brazil and his ultimate dream is to play soccer for them. He caught me looking at his beaded ring he had on his right hand. He took it straight off and gave it to me as a gift (pictured). It hasn’t been off my finger since. I am now sponsoring Stephen through school and for his food and board at the shelter.

That night we shared many stories and ate local food followed by a few sweet treats. :-) The boys asked if I like to cook and as soon as I said ‘sure I do’ they delegated me chief chapatti maker the following day. Whoa, making half a dozen is one thing, but almost 100 was something else.
Apparently good entertainment watching the little white lady crying from the smoke and burning her fingers on the hotplate. But gee they tasted good! It was great to see some of them smile too – 11 of them had circumcisions (aged 8 – 14) just the week before. They were still in a lot of pain. We then had to high tail it out of there to meet with one of Somar’s sponsors. It’s a shame I won’t get another chance to see them before I leave.


Ok, going back………. Thursday, before we went to the Shelter, Faith, Grace and I made our way to Giwa IDP Camp (about 20 min NW of Nakuru). A couple of weeks prior, Faith organised the hire of the van and a short medical camp for pregnant women and babies through Izzo. So on the way I was able to share with them the IDP Camp I lived with, worked with and helped build the school at last year. I was so happy to have them there, even though most of the medical concerns that people had were not to do with pregnancy or children. It was an incredibly busy 3 hours!
Faith did what she could to examine women comfortably. She was so respectful and gentle; the women were trusting and grateful. Grace kept herself busy with the kids outside. There were so many volunteers there it was awesome, the community really has come ahead in leaps and bounds thanks to Marafiki Community International. The school library and kitchen are being completed and the medical clinic and church are in construction. It was so very wonderful to see.

We got to Giwa just before dark. Faith showed us the volunteer house that she stayed at last year and that burned down just months ago. We took with us, David, a local builder and also the guy who practically single handily saved FreMo’s from its construction blunder. He was there to give a quote on rebuilding the volunteer house – Faith intends to turn some of it into a home for volunteers and clinic. I believe they start construction next week. Unfortunately I couldn’t stay with them (due to our expectant trip to Garissa the following morning) but I promise to return next week for a few days. I’m looking forward to going back – its’ very different to Maai Mahui. Although a lot greener, most with basic homes and small crops, they are still in great need, especially for a medical recruit. I’m not going to like being back to Kawangware without them. The place simply won’t be the same.

This weekend we have teamed up with an amazing group of people – renown humanitarian worker, Dr Mohammed Sheikh, Local Aid (Somar), Service for Peace (another local NGO Somar has teamed with) and Warda (the on the ground specialists and NGO in Dadaab, Nth Kenya). I know it will be hard, I think I am underestimating just how difficult but I am keen to get there. Fingers crossed this trip does eventuate, I want to help. From what I have seen and heard - this is the place that really needs it. This is why I first come to Kenya 18 months ago.

Wednesday, August 17, 2011

Saikeri - I missed this place!!




Returning to Saikeri was absolutely fantastic. Just as the IDP Camps, it stole a piece of my heart last year. Constructing FreMo’s Clinic in Kawangware has been like a dream but there is something incredibly special outside of the intensity of the slums – I’m a country girl and will always be proud to be. I like the simple life, even though the country here is a little on the extreme side.

When mum returned from Kenya last year, she spoke a lot of her experiences, predominately those of her time with Dr Maggie in Saikeri. Through sharing her stories, she touched the hearts of many in her home town and the word spread to a Chemist in Murray Bridge. A beautiful local lady and Richard, the owner of Chemplus Chemist, pulled together many medical supplies for me to bring with me – many of them specifically for the clinic in Saikeri. Yesterday I was able to do this. Dr Maggie was very overwhelmed by their generosity, ESPECIALLY the digital blood pressure machine that she almost passed out with excitement. I took a video but I’m sorry that the file is too large to upload. She insisted on signing a Jersey of thanks for their kindness. I’m excited to present this too them on my return.



Dr Maggie has received many donations from various volunteers and organisations in the past but never has she seen or operated a digital blood pressure machine. She was shocked (as was I) when the contraption spat out a paper record of the reading. Her reaction was priceless. Thank you Rowena, Richard, the local reps and team at Chemplus Chemist Murray Bridge!! I only wish you too were here to witness her gratitude.

The trip out to Saikeri is always an exciting one. It rained heavily the night before we left and until we reached the local town of Gnong we were unsure if we were able to make it out there. The roads are so rocky, steep and dangerous the roads are often unpassable in bad weather. We tracked down some boda, boda (bike) riders we trusted and started the long, slow, wet journey deep into the Maasai. Faith is not fond of bikes, so I think I just about prayed the whole way there for our safe arrival. It was definitely one of the tensest trips I have taken. Even Maggie was surprised to see us.

Faith confirmed that it was the most beautiful place she has been in Kenya. Our stay was brief but brilliant.

The afternoon we arrived, Maggie told me that she had purchased a piece of land and had started building. She was so excited; she had to take us out immediately. It is a perfect piece of paradise (pictured). Nestled just behind a hill and surrounded by the vast Maasai country side, it is a very special little place. I am so very happy that after all these years and 2 children (11 & 8) that she will soon have a place to call her own. She is about $900 short from completion (roof, doors & windows) but hopes to work on having most of this done by the end of this year. I am so proud of her; she has taken a small loan and done this all on her own!!! A massive accomplishment for anyone in Kenya, especially in the Maasai.



Another big (surprising) change is the construction of a brand new hospital. It was started in August last year and they have a completion date of April 2012. Apparently the government did a very big campaigne raising money to build numerous hospitals just like this one in rural areas around Kenya. I found it a little odd they decided to put it right in the middle of other buildings instead of to the side where there are thousands of acres of bare land, but it is going to look fantastic all the same. Maggie is very happy.



Just like last year, most of the jewellery purchased in Saikeri are from the ladies who make and wear them. For months last year I looked for a large arm bracelet – all of which were too small and suitable for the teeny skinny arms of the Maasai ladies. That was until yesterday when I met a lady with a envious ‘healthy’ build whose arms was the perfect fit. She saw me looking and eagerly removed it. I paid a generous $6 for a piece of jewellery I believe she has never removed – the bare, light coloured mark it left on her arm was intense. She is now proudly sporting a spot to show others of how a Mzungu chose her bracelet to wear. This makes them very proud. I am over the moon.



Friday is market day and generally a busy day for the clinic. Faith and I spent a few hours with Dr Maggie and patience while Grace explored the country side. She literally disappeared for hours at a time, never short of company though, whether it be dogs, children or Maasai men and their herds.



The trip back from Saikeri was as exciting as the trip there. For the first time, I caught their version of a Matatu which was in the back of a very crammed lorry (truck). The walls were so high you could not see out even if you stood, which for an incredibly rocky, dangerous trip kept you guessing which way to brace yourself. In fact, the stabalising was pretty much done for you – I was crammed tightly between a Maasai man and Maasai lady (who were actually sleeping!!!) It was a little painful with thier bony bodies pressed against mine but aside from the brusing, we had no worries. Unfortunately this mini video doesn’t do the trip justice as there were many camped on the floor and an additional 8 people were packed into the back and on top. Definitely an experience to remember.

I have been deliberating a lot in the last couple of weeks about travelling Scandinavia to visit a friend before meeting mum in Amsterdam. After a discussion with my friend in Finland, I have decided to postpone that part of the trip and stay longer in Kenya. After last year I should have known better. Once again I am going to find it incredibly hard to get on the plane. I am thankful for meeting mum in Europe or I believe I may once again not make my way to South America to volunteer in Peru. Yesterday, after numerous emails to the wonderful Rebecca from Student Flight Centre Alexandra Headlands (if you need a BRILLIANT travel agent when NOTHING is ever a problem – go see her, she is simply incredible!!!) I was able to delay leaving until the 1st of September – I will have another 8 wonderful days in Kenya. Thanks Bec!!

Unlike unemployed people on the dole in Australia I dealt with every day – people here will do literally anything!! Scrub toilets, clean sewer drains, collect (and inhale copius amounts) of charcoal, scrub HIV bloodied sheets – literally anything! Occasionally locals are bold and approach me in the street for work. It is amazing how skilled some of them are. We will find work for them if we can, although it is rarely possible.

Tomorrow Faith, Grace and I are heading to rural Kenya (West) to visit a couple of IDP Camps where Faith will hold mini medical camps for pregnant women and small babies – the afternoon they will then relocate to Giwa where they will remain until their departure in December. I need to come back to Nairobi ready for our trip to Somalia but I will be back out there next week to visit Faith and Grace in the Camps. It will be strange not having them around. I will miss them.

Thursday, August 11, 2011



The past 2 ½ weeks have been wonderful.

The clinic construction is almost complete and it’s looking fantastic. A new tank stand was designed and erected 2 days ago and the 5,000 litre water tank was purchased today (albeit for the second time).

Faith and Grace certainly kept busy while I was gone, Faith simply never stops. She is a powerhouse with cleaning abeautiful midwife. It was fantastic to see them again.

This morning we attended another birth which was remarkable. For the first time I played the role of the husband. Oh boy do they have a tough time. About 30 min before the gorgeous little boy was born, the mother found herself comfortable sitting (almost lying) on the mat on the floor leaning against me. My legs were folded beneath me and I could not move. After a period of time, Faith asked if the lady would like to try another position, she obliged and when she got up I couldn’t move – my legs simply didn’t work!! They had gone past the stage of pins and needles and were officially dead. I pulled them into a sitting position on the side of the bed where all they had to do was be feet flat on the floor then I held the mother from behind with my arms under hers for support. Just prior to sitting on my fragile legs, her favourite position was kneeling and I was kneeling behind her. When she had a contraction, she madly gestured for me to rub her lower back deeply with my chest pressed against her back for support. Then she would arch her back, throw her arms behind me and cup my arse cheeks. She had quite a grasp on her. I guess they were the perfect height. I have a new found respect for men who support their partners in birth!!! It was an incredible experience – I felt so many more things with her. Simply beautiful. There is nothing more natural. Grace also witnessed her first birth and she loved it. For a young lady whose mother has been doing this her whole life (13 yrs) it was a very special experience for us on so many levels.

I’m sad to say that Faith and Grace are moving as planned next Wednesday to Giwa – a remote IDP Camp just west of Nakuru. I will travel with them and stay a night or 2 and share their little piece of beauty in Kenya. I don’t like this business of saying goodbye though. It will be difficult, we have become very close.

Each day we have either a lunch and/or dinner together. Today was lunch and we sat on the balcony of our favourite, reliable little cafĂ© just down the road from Fremos. It’s incredibly entertaining from up there – here in the video, the chap on top of the bottles gave us a wee little wave. Funny. We’re not entirely convinced the driver even knew he was hitching a ride.

The 10 day retreat in Mt Kenya was challenging. It was very confronting and tough but wonderful. I will be forever grateful I had the strength to complete it.



On the way to Mt Kenya, we passed the Equator for I think the 6th time by road but this was the first time I was able to witness it in the daylight. Somer and I refrained from asking to do the water tricks, but we did ask them to stop the car so we could be a tourist and haver our photo taken.

Oohh, I have cut my hair and LOVE it. It’s the shortest is has been since the day I was born and it’s absolutely brilliant. I had wanted to do it before leaving for Kenya – I am so pleased I finally found the courage to just do it. It has been so easy and certainly a necessity here. Only bathing every 2 or 3 days and with limited water can prove to be a challenge with naturally greasy hair. I love it!

In about 10 min, Faith, Grace and I are heading to Saikeri - a place Mum and I spent some time at last year, deep into the Rift Valley and in the heart of the Maasai. I am so very excited to see Dr Maggie again!!! I have a mountain of supplies given to me from a generous lady (who chose not to be named) in Mum and Dad’s home town of Karoonda and Richard from Chemplus Chemist in Murray Bridge.

After hearing of Mum’s experience, the donors nominated these medical supplies to be given directly to Dr Maggie – I am so happy to be finally able to do this. There is currently a medical camp going on out there so the timing is absolutely perfect, I can’t wait to help out where I can. One of the donations is a blood glucose monitor and blood pressure machine – 2 instruments I am sure she desperately needs out there – I know she will be thrilled.

I am still working on getting up to Somalia to assist the walking refugees – what a tragic, tragic situation. I recently met a beautiful Australian lady, Somer, who is the founder and Board Member of a Kenyan NGO (Local Aid). She has been working on sponsors and getting together a medical team to head up there next weekend. I am hoping to go with them. Fingers crossed it will come to fruition. I know it will tear us in 2, but I am desperate to help where I can - medical supplies, food, shelter and a shoulder.

Will post again once returning from the Maasai.

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