IDP Medical Camp

Yesterday a bunch of the original crew at my orientation already 2 weeks ago joined forces spent the day providing free consultations and medication to the families of the displaced people we visited last weekend. We utilised 4 rooms of the almost completed school we made blackboards for. In each room we had a different set up. The first room was where each patient signed in, received a pink registration card which had their name, age and sex and if they were over the age of 30, their blood pressure was also taken and recorded.

They were then asked to line up at the next door where the doctor was, have their consultation where he would identify any problems (no patient left without drugs of some sort) and then provided with the required medication. In the third room, all the immunisations (and screaming evidently) took place. Then in the fourth room, all HIV/AIDS testing was carried out. All treatment was on a voluntary basis and all rooms were kept busy. HIV testing was conducted all day and although a few tests are still pending, there was only 1 reported positive case. It was a mother of 3. Unfortunately 2 of her 3 children also have the virus.

I spent most of my time in the second room where I divided hundreds of pills, poured (not so accurately measured) liquid paracetamol and mixed bottles of children’s antibiotics. I also spent time taking blood pressure which I loved.

Also, located about 80metres from the main building, we had a tent set up where all the urine testing for infections and pregnancy were conducted. When the first bunch of people arrived, Anna (the nurse who is responsible for sponsoring and funding most the medical project) caught the attention of everyone, handed out plastic cups and explained (with the help of an interpreter) that we were giving them a glass of water to drink. They were asked to hold on to the empty cup and pee into it following their meeting with the doctor and proceed to the far tent for testing. This was something new to them, so naturally they thought it was the funniest thing – but they all did what was asked. Other than the used syringes (which were disposed off down their massive drop toilets), nothing went to waste, not the pills dropped in the dirt or empty medication bottles. The processes were pretty prehistoric, but worked a treat.

Most of the patients travelled a few kilometres to see the doctor, some of which would have struggled for quite some time with leg braces and walking sticks (literally sticks). One young girl had very bad burns all over her face and body. She was so beautiful, she made me smile. We didn’t’ speak but we held hands, it spoke more than a thousand wonderful words. It's little moment like this that will stay with me forever.

We were all exhausted, went to bed early and I slept for 10 hours!! I am absolutely having the most amazing time.

Last night I cooked chicken schnitzel, mashed potato, steamed broccoli and carrot, sweet corn with butter and pinch of salt, and of course, gravy. They young girls (4 & 6 yo) thought the Mazungu food was a bit weird, but the other 9 who I cooked for (family members and volunteers) loved it and went back for more. Then for dessert, I made custard with fresh banana and pineapple – the girls loved that one! The Aussie and American volunteers especially loved the corn, it was a great night.

Fremo's Medical Clinic

This week has been great. We have started our work with the new Fremo Medical Clinic and they are as enthusiastic as we are. Less than 10 min of walking in the door, they handed us white lab coats. We looked at each other ‘what the...’ but put them on and sat in on a consultation for a gentleman who had a disease I had not heard of (Brucella I think – something caused by drinking contaminated food or milk?) Anyhoos, after administering an injection in his butt, the nurse said that Cim or I might see him for his upcoming consults – I just about died, especially considering we had told them we have no medical training (Cim has minimal). He couldn’t have been happier. After the gentleman left, we put them straight pretty damn quick.

Yesterday morning we started the photo project with 2 kid’s classes in the school and all the orphans for their medical records. They are so damn cute. For the next week, we are dividing our time between the school and clinic. We will then focus completely on Fremo’s. They have such limited equipment. It’s shocking to think that their aim is to become a registered hospital by the end of the year. They (we) have a looooonnnnngg way to go. We have organised to get quotes on equipment and basic needs that the government has stipulated such as tiled maternity ward, functional toilet and paved walkway. It’s currently mud. Oh, and right next to the clinic is a mechanical repair shop – well not a shop as such, all the work is done not 5 feet in front of our entrance – the entire centre is regularly engulfed in thick exhaust fumes. Gotta love Africa

This week we also spent a few hours with a different HIV/AIDS group who makes the most incredible baskets, clothes, purses and jewellery. I bought a few bracelets – can you believe it! And I just love them. I also spent quite some time chopping hay for a mushroom project they are starting. OMG – that is the video attached, hope it works. We cut bags of this straw with a machete and butchers knife. I have blisters all over my right hand which is what I was trying to show in the video – pathetic I know. Damn these women are strong. I itched and sneezed for hours but going back for more tomorrow! :-) They are not used to getting support from people who know they carry the virus, so it took them a little while for them to open up, but when they did, we had brilliant conversations. Remarkable strengths and talents.

It’s hard to believe its Friday again already; my time here is passing way too quickly. Tomorrow there is a medical camp at the IDP (Internally Displaced People) Project we visited last weekend. I am hoping there is enough room to join them. It would be really great to see the families again.

Kenya

I know I have a little catching up to do. It’s been a busy few days and I’m still trying to process what I have seen.

Thursday was a great day. It started with a phone call to Mum and Dad. It was brilliant to chat to them and to let them know I am here and safe as they have very limited access to the internet. The rest of the day was spent at the orphanage and visiting a group of remarkable ladies with HIV/AIDS who spend their time making beaded necklaces and bracelets to sell.

Thursday was also a sad day for the HIV community. We went to visit a lady by the name of Emily. She was 36 and died not long ago. Not an uncommon event, but upsetting all the same.

I took my first ride in a Matatu last week which was interesting – they are these tired old vans pimped up with flat screen tv’s and great stereo systems. They are the quickest form of transport and you will find them absolutely everywhere. They will drive off when you are still trying to get in, so you need to hang on and they often don’t stop fully when dropping you off. They cram in passengers and scream through the traffic with frightening speeds and accuracy. In here is also where a lot of the pick pocketing takes place – we were well informed at our orientation and it was fascinating to hear how they do it and what they look like.

On Friday, a bunch of us went on what’s known as an ‘Outreach Weekend’. It involved visiting rural communities. Just over an hour out of Nairobi, we come across this tiny school made of 3 rooms. God only knows where they lived, there were very few homes nearby – the kids were gorgeous, and thanks to previous volunteers they have basic teaching and were fed a meal of porridge every day. We spent a few hours with them drawing and playing games - basically having a load of fun.

The weekend also involved spending some time at Hell’s Gate National Park. After visiting the kids and grabbing some lunch for ourselves, we reached the park, jumped on a bike and rode 7km winding our way on a dirt track to the beginning of the walk into the gorge. The ride out was so scenic and vast. I saw my first Zebra, Buffalo, Baboons, Warthog and Gazelle! Absolutely brilliant – the Zebra’s and Baboons were so close, I had a moment to ponder on how fast I thought I could peddle on a bike with flat tyres and inability to change gears to gain speed. Definitely a heart starter. We also rode right by pride rock from the Lion King. The walk was actually pretty tough and there were a few minor falls/misjudged steps. It took about 2 ½ hours walking through a scene out of Indian Jones and a movie Angelina Jolie made. The view from the top was worth every blister and wet through shoes. We then rode the 7km track back to the van on sunset – simply beautiful on such a stunning landscape.

Some of us then went to the market and brought bulk flour, rice and fat (butter). The rest of us headed to the hotel to have dinner and get set up. It was almost 8pm by this stage and we were tired, dirty and hungry, so of course on the way we got a flat tyre. It was dark and cold (yes cold in Kenya) and with every few minutes that passed, a few more locals began gathering not far from the van ogling. We made it out of there safely about 15 min later.

In the middle of nowhere we randomly saw kids walking, usually in groups, on the side of the road in full uniform from school – on Friday night after Hells gate and just before we got the flat tyre, we picked up 8 of them and drove them home – again, very random, but it was late and there were no more matatu’s going past to pick them up – we took them I don’t’ know how many kilometres, but it would have been close to midnight before they had walked the distance on their own. They were so cute – I think we fit 8 of them in which meant 19 people in an 11 seated van – and we could have easily fit another 3 or 4 in! :-)

After dinner (around 9pm), we had to divide all the bulk food into approx 180 portions for the families we were to visit the next day. I was on the ‘fat’ portion splitting team (yeah, it was pretty messy) and that took us a couple of hours, so a bed and shower was a very comforting sight.

Friday night we stayed at this modest motel, that had awesome showers (thankfully our room had hot water – 4 of the 6 rooms didn’t! – its luck of the draw on the night) it was the first shower most of us had had since being here – it’s usually a quick wash with a bar of soap and shallow bucket of cold water. Refreshing!

The next morning (Saturday) we visited the IDP (Internally Displaced People) camp. Before visiting the families, we went to the newly built school (5 tin constructed rooms) and built 5 large blackboards for each room. It was an awesome feeling actually ‘doing’ something. It took a few hours to saw, nail, mount and paint each board. Everyone pitched in, even the drivers.

We then walked to each camp – there are 3 independent sites, each at different degrees of poverty. Seeing these families would break the hearts of the toughest people I know. You can’t help but think – that could be me, or someone I know. It really is devastating to the core. They are so very appreciative of us being there and providing them with food, as very basic as it is. I will be back there to help, and hopefully purchase some land for them to expand the school.

We visited a lady who is a week overdue giving birth to her 9th child. The entire family lives in this tiny hut, no bigger than an average sized bedroom where they sleep and do their cooking and chances are, she will deliver the child in her teeny home – again. There is no transport and the closest medical facility is an hour and a half walk – when you are a healthy walker!

The following 2 camps were a little more established. The second still had ripped, torn and repatched tents and little luxuries – a few did, however, have the odd tiny garden and lanterns. There was one lady we visited who was HIV positive (therefore ostracised from the community) and her most precious thing in life was her Kerosene lamp. It did not leave thick black marks on her roof like the last – it was also extremely hard on the lungs – the previous family of 10 (and most of the other families) have the old style. They are grateful however just to have the light and you wouldn’t’ ever hear them complain.

I honestly don’t’ know what to do – where to focus my attention, who to help, even where to start. It is extremely overwhelming. There are so many people in desperate need; I have never felt so helpless. It is only a thought at the moment, but I am considering extending my stay in Africa and perhaps doing South America another time. This place already has a large part my heart. It’s a real challenge to take a deep breath, step back and analyse each situation without jumping in and making an impulse decision to help every time I see a need.

Other than food and water, they are in need of simple things like any clothes (especially children’s), lamps, mattresses, books, pens, shoes and plastic for the rooves of their huts which we are slowly trying to accumulate with other volunteers.

They have every reason to give up on life and complain – but they never do. I am very humbled to be in the presence of these people every single moment of every day.

The drive back was sombre. There were a few tears and a lot of thinking. Although a tough decision after what we had just experienced, we still stuck to our original plan and made our way to dinner at Carnivore Restaurant – twice named in the top 50 restaurants in the world. It was definitely worth the trip. The entire compound was heavily secured and the food was amazing. I didn’t’ care too much for the crocodile (tasted too much like fish) but I did like the Ostridge. We had no time to change (even though I had been wet through from hip to shoe on my right side from a distraught child wetting herself – there are no nappies here), so despite the disgusting, dirty, sweaty clothes and tired bodies, we all had a great time. It was good to have the break.

A have a few projects I am looking at focusing my attention on, but I still need to do a little research and thinking, not only with my heart, but also my head before committing. I know some of you were hoping to send things by mail, but the postal system here is very unreliable and it is very expensive to collect any form of parcel from the post office. It is also brilliant if we could keep the money in Kenya to support the local economy, so I will be sure to pass on further details on different forms of sponsorship soon for those of you who would like to donate.

Yesterday I visited 4 separate medical clinics, all located in the slum where I am staying and each in walking distance (perhaps 2km apart) 3 of the clinics had extremely limited supplies, and Cim and I have found one that only opened its doors 3 months ago and we are the first volunteers to see them. There is a lot we can do and we are excited to help them get better established. We are officially starting there tomorrow, so will write more when I have experienced it more first hand.

I also have a mobile phone number here now so be sure to email me if you want it.

Take care
Tarsh

Obama is scared of white people

Where to start..

Today was my third day working with HIV/AIDS and TB patients. We do home visits where we clean, cook and simply just chat to them. Today, after buying the necessary ingredients I actually cooked a traditional Kenyan meal called Ugali (maze with water) with Sukuma Wiki (spinach) for Judy, she is 43 and was made aware of contracting the virus only 5 months ago. Ugali is cheap and filling. The vegetables make for a nutritious meal to have with their medication.

Obama is a young child of a neighbour to Judy. We are not sure how many, if any white people he had seen before, but he was absolutely terrified of us. His mum picked him up and brought him to us to show him it was ok and touch our skin – he completely freaked out. Even the photo on my digital camera didn’t’ soothe him. It may have been funny if he wasn’t’ bordering hysterical, although his mum and other neighbours found it very amusing. Poor bugger, he hid for hours.

The HIV sufferers are all surprisingly open to discuss literally anything about their condition, how long they’ve had the virus, how they got it, how they feel, what medication they take etc….. they are pretty happy and coping well, but seeing them and their living conditions is tough.

I have moved to a home stay that is closer to where we are working. I am living in a slum North West of Nairobi, still quite close to the city. When we first arrived, I couldn’t believe they wanted us to get out of the car, let alone live here! Until you spend a couple of days here, the streets are pretty scary, but it seriously is ok, and the house where we live is very safe and secure. Also, it was disturbing to learn that anyone who is caught or openly accused of stealing here is stoned to death. If you find that someone has stolen something from you before they disappear, all you actually need to do is ask for it back and they will return it. Seriously – if they don’t’ give it back and you yell ‘thief’, it is a guarantee they will be publicly stoned to death.

Before making our placement on Tuesday, Cim and I also spent the day in our home mother’s orphanage/school she started 3 years ago. Despite their seriously snotty noses and tendency to grab at my skin, hair and clothing at EVERY opportunity, it was a great experience. We were not told we were going to the school until we had breakfast, neither did the other teachers. I was given the 5yo class, asked to sit, handed a piece of white chalk and be told ‘you teach now’. Oh shit! :-)

It was fun. They constantly have their hands in the air yelling ‘teacher, teacher, teacher….’ We did some drawing and when their pencils become blunt, I asked the teacher if I could sharpen them, ‘oh sure’ she said, then handed me a flimsy razor blade. Seriously. I had to sharpen 26 pencils and had little cuts and slices all over my fingers. The kids loved watching me concentrate so hard, I’m sure they snapped their leads just to watch me struggle again. The teacher (Elina) was thrilled to bits when I gave her a pencil sharpener the next day. For lunch, we had boiled rice, sauerkraut and chai tea. The kids love to sing, or is it screaming?

As a project, Cim and I have decided to take a photo of each student in our class rooms and have them design their own photo frame. Something we are really looking forward to starting next week.

I know things work completely different here, but I was still pretty shocked when I saw the teacher strike children with a solid stick and slap a young boy a number of times around the head. I had to turn away and bite my tongue – it was hard

Walking the streets, whether it be children or adults, all we constantly hear is, ‘hello Mzungu, how are you?’ (Each word pronounced slowly and with sincerity) Mzungu means ‘white person’. It’s surprising that everyone here has, at the very least, a good grasp of the English language. This of course is brilliant because my Kiswahili is currently limited to only 6 or 7 words. The people here are really friendly and actually never bother you to buy things (a marked difference from Bali) – although I hear it is different at the Maasi Markets.

The poverty, rubbish and pollution is shocking. It compares with Nepal, but instead of pigs roaming the drains and rubbish, there are goats and dogs.

This weekend we are going away on an ‘outreach’ weekend in the rural areas – also our first chance to see some wildlife. Can’t wait to experience it and tell you all about it.

X

Jambo!!

It’s great to be here. Nairobi is a busy city. It is dry, dusty, windy and really dirty. I am staying in a small 3 bedroom place with 11 other volunteers and 6 permanent members of the family. A new understanding for organised chaos!

On Sunday we went to the local church of the family we are staying with and it was a service like I have never witnessed. There were hundreds of worshipers standing, dancing, singing, clapping and crying. The trip there was even more exciting. In this tiny well travelled Toyota Carina, we fit 10 of us – yes 10!!! Holy molly, what an experience. 6 of us were volunteers – In the back were 3 brave men, Steve, Dave and Patrick, then on their laps were us three ladies, Brook, Rachael and I. In the front was a very pregnant Margaret (lady we are staying with) and her 2 children, Crystal 6, and Kym 3, and then driving was her husband Oliver. The poor car – it bellied out everywhere, the roads are very rough, traffic is manic and lined with local markets with people spewing into the oncoming traffic.

Monday morning is our orientation – 16 of us will discover where we will ultimately be placed throughout Kenya. Only 2 of the 11 volunteers I have met so far know where they are going. We are all excited and bonds are already being formed.

So much more I need to say, but must shoot. We are forbidden to walk at night (even in a group) and it’s getting dark soon - it’s a 10 min walk home, so best be off.

I also have photos I need to upload, but the connection I use in the nearby shops are a little scatty, so will try again when I post another update.
X

My last couple of days in Bali have been absolutely super. Yesterday I spent hours walking the dirt tracks and lanes of the rice fields. I decided to soak in moments and scenery instead of living it behind my camera – simply beautiful but labouring on the fields looks like excruciatingly hard work. It does, however, give me a greater appreciation for savouring a serving of rice.

There are a couple of local lads (late 20s/early 30s??) that are caretakers for the place where we are staying and I caught them unawares this morning when they were cleaning with their shirts off – HELLO!!! I haven’t’ seen bodies like that for at least 8 months – they know how to take care of themselves, sadly no photos, sorry ladies.

Today I visited the sweetest little school called Pelangi School about 5 km SW of Ubud. I had a wonderful chat with Felicite in the office and they would be thrilled for me to visit back there to do some teaching. I am so excited, what a wonderful opportunity and yet another brilliant excuse for me to return. We are staying in touch by email. Although the school looks very well kept, it is not for profit and most of the classrooms still don’t have tables and chairs, there are numbers on the floor where the children sit. The classrooms are huts made of bamboo with makeshift artwork designed by the kids as protection from gaping holes when it rains (like today). I was so sad to miss them – I was there at 2pm and the class is dismissed by 12 on a Friday. Extremely disappointing, but the few older kids that were hanging around for English lessons were a lot of fun to joke around with. They attend school 6 days a week, so some of their days are shorter. How I would have loved to sit in on a class and talk to them – something they have encouraged me to do on my return.

I savoured my last sunset on our balcony overlooking the rice fields. I believe that people who have visited Bali before and not enjoyed it have definitely visited the wrong places. The locals are such a joy to be around (when they’re not selling you something), the food is amazing, scenery completely stunning, prices more than affordable, easy to get around, safe and the weather is ideal. The islands are beautiful, still untouched and the beer is damn good

Soili, what can I say…. It was such a joy sharing with you over the past week. I do hope I have the opportunity one day to make it to Finland and meet your beloved hedgehog. :-) Enjoy the remainder of your journey in Indonesia – wow, to spend ANOTHER month there would be amazing, I can’t wait to hear all about the North. I also feel compelled to say that I am still full from lunch….. thank you sooooo much for shouting me my last Nasi Goereng Special and banana pancake with ice cream. Yummoooooo. I hope we keep in touch.

Right now I am at Doha airport – the capital of Qatar. I nearly didn’t’ make it on the plane from Denpasar – last night I booked a bus from Kenya to Tanzania as my proof of leaving the country. It was however, apparently not enough. The ‘thank you’ letter I had printed from the African company was not sufficient and they said that if I board the plane, they would not let me through the other side. I explained that I was planning to go to Cairo, but had not booked the flight as I was unsure of the dates and according to entry requirements of Kenya, a ticket by whatever means out of that country (including to Tanzania) was adequate. I was surprisingly calm, I asked them if they had wifi, they said no. I asked if there was a computer I could use to gain further confirmation from the bus company, they said no. I asked if I could negotiate my case when I get to the other side, they said no. I suggested if we could find a computer, I could avoid any further problems and just book my flight to Cairo. They were busy negotiating my dilemma in Indonesian and didn’t’ respond. I was shoved from supervisor to supervisor before I was taken to this room that had a computer with what must have been dial up connection. I jumped on Zuji.com.au and booked my flight to Cairo, I leave Kenya in late May. All through this process they were extremely polite and helpful – and I continued to stay cool and in control, yay me! I am pleased to say I am now in Doha and don’t mind in the slightest that I have a 3 hour wait before completing the last of my journey to Nairobi. I find myself skimming the crowd looking for Africans that I can potentially befriend while waiting for and on the flight. Only hours away.

Gotta shoot and next I post will be from somewhere in Kenya…

Ubud - Snake!

Oh boy what a day! Yep, that is a 47kg snake – python I think (the handler did say, but it was a burden just to breath). Relaxed? Hardly, I was doing the Elvis and really had to concentrate on not passing out! Whoa, it was a rush but can’t say I’ll be pushing to the front of the lie to do it any time again soon!

Today we lazily woke up around 9.30ish, had breakfast, picked up our washing (ooh yeah, for $2 I lashed out for clean clothes that I didn’t have to hand wash – luxury while I can and cheap!), had lunch then at 2pm jumped in a 4wd thing and joined this tour.

We visited a farm, temple, another holy monkey forest (that also had the snake and bats) and NO – I didn’t’ go into the monkey thing – even from the outside we witnessed a couple of attacks – these monsters are really nasty! One rumbled through this ladies bag and hissed at her when she realised and pulled it away, another ran up to this little boy and grabbed his lolly pop right out of his mouth (photo above) Unbelievable!!

From the monkey forest, we went to Tanah Lot Temple for sunset– this stunning temple is on the top of its own little island (also in photo). Really lovely, but overflowing with tourists – there were sooooo many side stalls and shops, it could have been mistaken for an inner city mall. Nice to see all the same – took heaps of photos for you Michelle, but so happy we didn’t’ hire scooters to get there, it would have been an absolute nightmare!

Thanks so much for your message too Danni, I was so happy to read it - you won't regret coming to Bali, it is such a magical place. Just don't spend too much time in Kuta. :-) Hi to all in the restaurant, sad to say, but I really miss working at M too.

Not sure what I am doing tomorrow, I didn’t manage to squeeze in a massage today, so perhaps I will tomorrow. :-)

Cooking class

The weather in Bali rocks! Hot by day and coolish by night. Soili and I are sitting outside on our balcony drinking Vodka and Lemonade from plastic thermos cups. We just finished a Balinese feast and 660ml bottle of Bintang each for around $4.50 AUD. I’m really gonna miss this place. She was just telling me of her pet hedgehog in Finland – she showed me pictures and she (lilithe) is so adorable, I almost want one. When Soili gets home, she will arrange for Lilithe to meet with a mate – but it has to be in his environment otherwise she will probably kill him being over protective in her own. Lilithe is now around the size of a mango and I feel like I already know her – yep, I think the vodka is kicking in…..

The cooking class was fantastic – there were 4 of us and each suitably stuffed by the end of our 3 hour lesson. Not surprising, I actually had trouble walking back to our accommodation at any great pace. It was more observing than cooking, but they were generous in thier explanations and allowing us time to help them through the process. The other two were a really lovely Canadian couple who are retired and spend 5 months of each year travelling the world. They really are truly living the life so many of us dream of, but unable to find the courage. They also agreed, if you want it bad enough – you will find a way. Take life by the balls I say and enjoy it while you still have a choice.

Every morning before we get up and every afternoon when we get back from whatever it is we were doing, we find 2 fresh cups and saucers (lovely posh matching ones), replenished teabags, coffee and sugar and a fresh large thermos of steaming hot water. Their coffee is thick and dark – you serve it as you would normal granule coffee, but this stuff stays tar like in the bottom of your cup – it doesn’t take long to get used to the flavour and texture. I look forward to it every morning and find myself getting quite addicted. One of many things I will miss about Indonesia.

I will be having another massage tomorrow, I’m averaging one every second day, don’t want to overdo it! :-)

A massive thank you to Daniel, my brother, who provided me with a couple of sets of earplugs! Every morning, around 4am, the dogs, ducks, pigeons, roosters and local farmers start their day. I'm enjoying my sleep in's. I think of you, Sheryl, Toby and Evan often. Big hugs and smooches to you all.

I’m starting to use my backspace more than I should, so better be off!

Love and peace to everyone who actually takes the time to read this blog.
Mwahh
X

Ubud - Monkeys!

This morning was brilliant. I called mum and dad via skype and had a great chat. Miss you both heaps and hope you received my little parcel mum. It’s not much, but it’s a start…

We visited the monkey temple today and a rotten monkey jumped on my back when I was bending down to take a photo of a baby one. I tried staying calm with every other tourist bastard watching on and too scared to help – it was after my water bottle that I keep on the side of my bag (yes, the culprit has it in the photo). The little creep wouldn’t get off so I ended up ditching the backpack – in the process; he grabbed at my right arm, but didn’t break the skin - THANK GOD!!!! Well… (I literally just took a big sigh of relief!!), no more monkeys for Tarsh!!

Tomorrow we have a gentle day planned - a cooking lesson which shouldn’t be too much trouble!! Nevertheless, stay tunned… :-) Thank goodness for travel insurance – who knows when you may need it…

Ubud is a great place. Our accommodation is surrounded by rice paddies which are very beautiful. I am sharing with Soili, the lady from Finland I met on the Island Gili Air and she found this enormous room with 2 queen beds, large bathroom and balcony the size of half the houses here. We are on the third floor with a lovely view and welcoming breeze (although not as warm as Kuta). We are less than a 5 min stroll to the main street with temples, shops and markets. Ideal.

Speaking to mum and dad has been a massive highlight – even if they had to ‘hold’ while the landlord come to take our brekkie order. :-) Sadly there was no choice of Indonesian cuisine, so we had to order eggs (or pancakes). Most of our breakfasts to date, and by choice, have been either Mei Goreing or Nasi Goreing (Indonesian Fried Rice or Noodles) Yummo!! In saying this, the feast arrived with a massive plate of fresh (peeled) fruit – watermelon, rockmelon, pineapple, banana and some other type of melon as well as another plate of our scrambled eggs and 2 pieces of fried toast!!! I cannot believe the mass of food I am eating here. I simply love Indonesian food!

Last night was also great – we had an early dinner then proceeded to get drunk on our balcony listening to live jazz, sung and performed by little people. It was great! The sunset was beautiful too!

We have really good internet access here, so I’ll endeavour to jump on again soon – hopefully to gloat about my fabulous cooking skills.

Massage

The best hour and a half massage ever!! This tiny little (yep, shorter than me even) Indonesian miracle just worked my muscles to jelly. She got on the bed and knelt beside me to get her whole little weight behind her – awesome! Walking slowly back from the massage, I must have looked high – everyone I passed gave me this knowing look and smile as if we were sharing something special. All I could manage was a slow grin of pleasure back!

My period of vulnerability is to be blamed on Michelle – you see she just left me. We just said our goodbyes as she drove away in a taxi for her flight back to Oz. I was sad and got pulled in at a moment of weakness. I should have more of them. For less than $8 I was so relaxed I almost dribbled.

The last week has been brilliant – let me go back….

After 4 glorious nights at a lovely hotel in Legian, we packed our bags early and nervously waited for our transport to the boat that was to take us to the little islands just off Lombok. Nervous because we only paid a fraction of the price for a boat that we had not heard of and that was not recommended by the hotel. We got a cracker of a price for a cracker of a trip – it was a gentle 4 hour ride and I didn’t feel sick once, woohoo!

We took a public boat between the islands and on the short trip over we ran out of petrol… twice. We refuelled with empty jerry cans and lit cigarettes.

The 3 nights on Gili Air was the most relaxing time I can remember. It is a stunning Island, as are the 2 neighbouring ones, Gili Trawangan and Gili Meno (thanks for recommending Ryan!). We pass our days by drinking and eating our way around the island. We sat, walked, snorkelled, sat, drank, ate, swam, slept, snorkelled, drank, swam… you get the idea – absolute gratification. Everything about this place was terrific. You know those special little untouched pieces of paradise that your grandparents talked about seeing when they were younger, well this is it. As well as a deserted island I visited with a friend in Thailand, this is the closest thing! There is no motorised transport – only horse and cart or bicycle! Unless you hire a local’s private boat, there is only one boat heading to and one boat leaving from the island each day. There are no street lights, few places with hot and cold water and electricity is run by generators that regularly drops out. The alcohol and food is really cheap and the locals are gorgeous. The kids run around naked, mothers with baskets filled with goodies on their heads and fathers who fish with spears or walk with hand nets at night in the ocean. This time of year there are more locals than guests which was truly magic.

We visited a little turtle sanctuary on Gili Meno and donated enough money to feed them for 1 day. Also surprising was a guy riding a bicycle with a little tune playing from his handle bars and a box on the back with Walls (Streets) ice creams – how cool.

We found a place with 24 hour electricity, running water (albeit cold only), AND air conditioning (yay). We stayed on the North East of the Island, which is quieter and incredibly relaxing. We also met some extremely cool people – Leonardo and Daisy from Brazil, who I hope to visit if I make it to South America and Soili from Finland who I am meeting up with tomorrow in Ubud.

We made the trip back to Bali yesterday and wandered the streets today looking for little bargains – Michelle you are the bartering queen, I loved watching you work your sweet magic on the locals, I even think they enjoyed the challenge. I have enough DVD’s to last me a few months and Michelle has taken enough DVD’s to last her 3 years!! AND they all work! They really are great copies. Amazing!! Thanks again for making the trip with me Michelle, its quiet without you. I would travel with you again in a heartbeat, it was bloody great fun.

I leave the beach tomorrow for the land of rice paddies in Ubud.

Gili Islands

Bali is beautiful. The weather, massages, food, cocktails, people and culture make it a place I already plan to revisit. It is hot, humid and I LOVE it!! At this time of year it is quiet which is great and I have found the locals more respectful than I expected. We havent' spent much time in Kuta yet though!

We have spent most of our time relaxing by the pool drinking cocktails or lounging in plastic chairs drinking beer at Billy's Bar on the beach.

On Friday night we went out and had a brillint night spending most of our time in a place called Sky Garden which is a 5 storey club (including rooftop) that had diferent music on each level!!! It ended with a 3.30am swin in the ocean - absolutley invigorating!

Michelle will fly home on Friday :-( and for my last week I hope to hire a scooter and have a wonder around the island. After speaking to a guy that spends alot of time here, there are quite a number of orphanages and homes that care for the homeless and disabled. It's just a matter of finding where they are.

I am writing this from the 'Lightening fast internet cafe' on Gili Trawangan Island. It took us 4 hours by 'super fast boat' to get here from Bali and we are just waiting for an 'island hoper' to take us to a quieter island called Gili Air. We have not booked accomodation, so will be interesting to see whether we get a very basic hut on the beach or luxury room with airconditioning and electicity - woohoo!!

Must shoot, but will write again soon when we make it back to the main Island. I also plan to upload some photos. Hope everyone is well. We are having a ball!!!
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