Egypt

Holly molly, what a surprising country! I only allowed only 4 days to see everything on my list in Egypt and albeit quick – it was just enough. Immediately after arriving though, I knew I could have stayed longer. Despite what I was prepared for, following what I had heard and read, the people were absolutely wonderful! The weather was perfect (aside perhaps from the sand storm) and the sellers on the street actually listened when I said no – maybe it’s the way I now say it after months of practice in Bali and Kenya.

I arrived in the morning of Wednesday the 26th and checked into my hotel – it was supposed to be a cheap backpacker style hostel (just a bed for a night) but this place was amazing – hotel rooms that were really cheap, incredibly friendly helpful staff and brilliantly located near down town. My view on the 7th floor was of the Egyptian Museum and the River Nile! Very nice!!! Anyone heading to Cairo? I would definitely recommend the Arabesque Hotel!

The lift to the hotel was an adventure. It was this tiny little box for 2 people. It had to be hand closed and bolted. It was blacker than black inside. The only light was the faded green circle around the number 6 and an almost nonexistent beam from the edges of the lift as it passed each floor. The prehistoric machine hesitated before leaving the ground and it stopped somewhere between 4th and 5th floor without warning and started again the same way. I let out a little giggle and I’m sure they guy behind me would have fallen through the wall if he’d pushed back any harder. Not surprisingly, the lift packed it in 4 uses after I was in it – thank god it wasn’t’ me. I don’t suffer from claustrophobia but that had me taking deep breaths when I got out.

The first day was a bit of a struggle – I was fortunate to have 3 seats to myself on the plane and managed to get almost 3 hours sleep, but I was exhausted from saying goodbye to the other volunteers, then staying up until 5.30am for my delayed flight. When I arrived, I spent time wandering around the town and visiting the Egyptian Museum – OMG the room dedicated to Tutankhamun was absolutely incredible. To see his solid gold head piece, his jewellery, 2 of his coffins and his chariot was breathtaking. I even saw a real preserved mummy (not his) and spent almost 4 hours wandering the exhibits. I was disappointed cameras were not allowed.

Thursday was the day I organised to see the Giza (Pyramids and Sphinx). It was also the day of a pretty bad sand storm, which explains the white back drop. It was windy and gritty, but brilliant. Okay so kissing the Sphinx is corny – but it’s the best lovin’ I’ve had in a while. :-) To see them in real life was something else. I went inside the Red Pyramid – it was a gnarly, very narrow climb down and back up this steep 125 metre ladder thing – you were crouched the whole way and my legs are still sore 4 days on! Yeah, yeah poor me….

That night I got a rough overnight train to Luxor, where I can comfortably say I had my favourite day. I saw the Valley of the Kings, Valley of the Queens, Temple of Queen Hatshpsute, Karnak Temple (which took over 2000 years to finish), Luxor Temple and the twin statues (westbank). Unbelievable! Knowing how little I know about Egypt and its history, I took advantage of a guide who superbly explained everything in great detail and simple terms. I was again deeply disappointed cameras were not allowed into the Valley of the Kings – but it is an experience I will not forget. I went into 3 tombs which were each slightly different, bare, but skilfully decorated in superb vivid colours. What back breaking work that would have been. And damn hot. The tombs were suprisingly wide with random rooms to each side, unexpectedly smooth surfaces and high ceilings. They liked drawing men with beard's and straight penis's.

Well here I am back on the River Nile – it seems white water rafting in Uganda wasn’t enough….. I took advantage of spending a wee while on a wonderful Felucca ride soaking up the sunshine lying on the padded deck watching the world slowly pass me by on the Nile. Next time I will definitely spend a couple of days on one, mere hours is simply teasing. I did feel it was a shame though, that I was on my own, it would certainly make for the perfect romantic cruise or party boat with a bunch of friends. I adore travelling on my own, but there are times where I do miss company.

One of the most inconceivable things I have seen in my travels has been seeing water, lush vegetation and desert come together. My photo does not do what I felt justice. Simply remarkable. What a contrast!

Friday afternoon I went out for a few drinks with a great bunch of people I had met (Luxor beer of course) then got another overnight train back to Cairo. Both the rides to and from Luxor in 1st class (haha!) was super rough, I would recommend a sleeper! On the way to the train station it started to spit ever so slightly, and few joked it was pouring down – I guess rain is pretty rare in Egypt.

It surprised me at every turn the similarities between Egypt and the United Arab Emirates, the language, weather, sand, shopping, people, traffic and newer buildings. It’s hard to fathom Egypt is actually a country in Africa.

Saturday, I spoke to a number of people from home including my favourite little lady Alexis. Hello beautiful girl, I know mummy will read this to you and show you my photos, so I just wanted to say a very special hello to you. It made me so happy when we spoke on the phone and you recognised my voice! I miss you so very much and really happy to hear you are getting my postcards and showing them in class. I promise I will send you lots more! I love you and can hardly believe how very grown up you are sounding. Congratulations from graduating in swimming class too that’s wonderful news, I just know you will be able to teach little Baden how to swim one day too. Look after your little brother, mum and dad for me! I love you to the moon and back sweetheart and miss you lots and lots. XX Thanks Kath – miss you too! XX

At around 3.30 in the afternoon, I left for the airport. Once checked into the gate, I hung back not wanting to fight the crowd to the plane and as I did I saw this lady having trouble trying to drink some orange juice. She was shaking so hard she couldn’t hold the bottle on her own. I offered to hold her drink. She explained she had very low blood sugar but would be just fine. Her name is Mynda and we got talking, she is a really lovely lady who is American but lives in Greece. She has a great story and remarkable strength. With a bit of luck we will catch up in Athens before I fly out. I am a better person for all the incredible people I have met on my travels.

I will write again from much anticipated Greece – yahoo!!!

MY MUMS COMING TO KENYA!!!!!

Oh my gosh, I still can’t believe it. I am so damn excited 3 weeks from now feels like a year. Mum will be flying into Nairobi on Friday 18th of June. By then all her shots will be done! She has never been outside of Australia and collected her very first passport less than 2 weeks ago! Mum will be with me for 5 weeks then we will be travelling back to Australia together. Yeah that’s right I’m coming home. After a great deal of thought, I decided I am not done with Kenya yet and find it very hard to justify helping another country when there is so much I can do here, so I’ve decided to postpone South America. I will make it there. That is a said promise to myself. This will be a massive cultural experience all at once for mum, but I know she is ready.

Following my last instalment, I was due to go to the Maasai Mara, but that night it poured down and all roads to Maasai Camps were impassable. We had a new intake of volunteers and as they were due to start their placements the following day, so staff took them out, only to get stuck in heavy mud late afternoon and with being so isolated, they were trapped there all night and didn’t get towed out until mid morning – what a tough first day for the volunteers, welcome to Kenya!!

It continued to rain steadily for 3 more days, so I (and 2 other volunteers already stationed out there waiting to get back) didn’t risk it and stayed in Nairobi where I dragged them around to my placements. The first visit we made was to Judy and Mary and it was the first time I had managed to see them since returning from Tanzania. It was hard. They thought I had left without saying goodbye, even thought I promised I wouldn't. I learnt that in the short time I had not been to visit them, the gorgeous 9 year old boy from across the yard died 2 weeks before of severe diarreah and Angel (18 month girl next to him) sustained horrific burns to 70% of her body from boiling tea. She has been in hospital for almost 3 weeks with no sign of getting out in the near future. I know I cannot always be there, but I was completely gutted to know I have the exact medication the boy needed to help prevent his death.

Another young boy I have mentioned before, Obamah (who hated white people) sounded like he had a bad chest cold, so I brought back some medication for him (and to share with others in the compound) – his mum (Lillian) was so grateful she was almost in tears. During my visits, Lillian and I have spent time talking and sharing stories which has slowly encouraged Obamah in getting to know me better – he doesn’t scream anymore and we play chasing games, the biggest breakthrough though was this day when he allowed me to catch and tickle him, he has the cutest laugh ever! Perhaps it shouldn’t’ have been, but it was quite a shock when Lillian asked me if I could take Obamah home with me to Australia – Chantelle and Eric (the other 2 volunteers) were as floored as I was. How to respond to that… Close your eyes for a moment and picture a good mother with a sick child who is desperately in love with her family but even more desperate for her child to have a better future than she can offer. It was hard for me; it must have been literally unbearable for her. Even with his cough, he is well cared for, has food almost every day, have people that love him and a roof over his head. I smiled politely and she knew the answer was no.

After a weekend at IDP in early May, I have been floating between Fremo’s and the HIV ladies homes. Another Aussie volunteer, Simone, is working at a boy’s orphanage not too far from my clinic. At only 20 she is far mature beyond her years and has been faced with many challenges including runaways and those who fake illness just to get out for a trip to the clinic (even when it involves an injection one didn't need!). Simone helped Cim and I out for the free 3 day medical camp we did in April. From this expereince, she too did a free medical camp last Wednesday. It was solely dedicated to the boys of the orphanage – it was established on the orphanage grounds and she asked me to look over the HIV tent – there were 3 of us testing for the best part of the day. For most of the volunteers this was their first week in Kenya and certainly first time testing. Even with most thorough instructions and practice, accidents can happen. Unfortunately it was a very tense 2 minutes after one of the female volunteers pricked herself with the same needle she used to prick test a child – he freaked out and pulled away hard at the wrong time. Thankfully he and all the boys were negative. Unfortunately this volunteer will need a furhter test in 3 months just to be sure.

The day after the camp, a bunch of 9 other volunteers and me took a trip down to Mombasa (Diani). It’s simply incredible how much fun you can have with a bunch of people you barely know. Most of them were new, under the age of 20 but well grounded, have enormous hearts and damn they know how to have good time. We rented this mini mansion very close to the beach and the weather was excellent which also meant there were some pretty burnt bodies.

The goats here are seriously amazing, they live off garbage and you will find them literally anywhere, anytime. Eric, Chantelle and I stood there for a while wondering how on earth they managed to get up there? It remains a mystery. It was a long way from the other end.

Since my last post, I have visited the IDP camps twice. First was with Eric, a guy from Canada who brought with him a bunch of tooth brushes, toothpaste and sanitary pads donated by his dentist. You should have seen the camps, it was like christmas! The first type of dental hygene for most of them. One boy, pictured, was so excited, he forgot to swallow - priceless!!

Yesterday was a magical day, I went with a small bunch of people dedicating their time to the IDP camps and started profiling children between the ages of 4 and 8 in anticipation of opening the school early next week. It was fantastic getting to know each of them that little bit better. We interviewed 29 children which is a great start. One of the young boys (I'm holding) is adorable and lucky to be alive. His entire body burnt beyond recognition. He is healing well.

Tomorrow (26 May) I am heading to Egypt and Greece. I am looking forward to it, but it’s going to be tough to say cheerio to most of the volunteers who will have left before I return in early June.

Back in Kenya

I LOVE being back in Kenya. I arrived on Thursday (7 May), late afternoon, caught up with a few other volunteers, who of course had missed me terribly, then, early on Friday a bunch of us (newbies and oldies) went back to the IDP (Internally Displaced People) Camp to visit and feed the families.

I have such a great time visiting the camps, each time I love it more and more. It doesn’t however, get any easier. I had hoped it would. It’s not as shocking as the first visit, but each time I see something more that is gut wrenching. Like this weekend it was the first time in a month that we had been able to make it out to feed the families. One woman from the second camp was so starving hungry she hugged and kissed me with repeated thanks for our help. I openly wept with her, I honestly couldn’t’ stop myself – they are getting to know my face now and she came straight up to me. These beautiful gracious people have so very little and no way to provide for themselves, a little fat, maze and rice barely seem sufficient. This is the community I have decided to help. Of anyone one group of people I have seen, they are the ones in grave need and ones I want to help – they have never asked me for anything, just looks and words of thanks for our presents and help.

When we visit we spend a lot of time playing with the children. This trip I also spent half an hour digging a 3cm thorn from this little girl’s foot – I wouldn’t have noticed if she wasn’t playing with the dead skin sticking out from her heel. It had been there so long that the skin had grown over several layers; I ended up digging deeper than I would have liked and she didn’t even flinch! They are such strong kids and my heart leaps every time I hug their tiny bodies and feel the bones protruding through their torn filthy clothes. For so many nights I have gone to sleep and woken up with ideas on how to help make their lives a little easier. I am in the process of putting a detailed proposal together for those of you who would like to help. There are 2 separate projects I have decided to support; the IDP Camps and Fremo’s Medical Clinic. Both ventures I have been working closely with for more than 2 months now.

While visiting IDP, we also spent a day working on the school. We almost finished the floors ready for the new tables and chairs we are hoping to pick up this week. Providing all goes well, the school should be ready for its first enrolments of students in less than 2 weeks. Woohoo!

During the week, Jane (another volunteer) and I visited a town in the Maasai called Kajiado where we were introduced to this very sweet Maasai lady. She does not speak English and when she learned I was to return, she offered to make me a traditional Maasai outfit and then took a beautiful blue necklace from her own neck and put it on mine as a sign of respect. Oh boy how cool! She did the same with Jane. We spent time in her little Manyatta (traditional cow dung home & pictured) which was very cosy and homely.

We then went to this local restaurant where we were treated to this massive beef carcase that was hacked in front of us, boiled spuds, ugali and spinach. Super damn tasty – another reason to head back to this delightful place. Just what my carb belly needs….. it’s growing rather large now – very unwelcomed. :-)

On Saturday night while eating dinner, I received a phone call from Moffatt (administrator at Fremo’s) who said a lady had just been admitted to have a baby – I grabbed Jane (who was just as much fun to watch) shot straight over and saw my second baby being born, this time a little girl. I was the very first person who's finger she held – again an amazing experience!

It is the rainy season here and when it absolutely buckets down it causes terrible chaos and accidents. The draining, as you can see, is not in shape to keep up with the down pours. Being winter, it has been a little chilly of late. Think I’m going to have to buy a second jumper!

It occurred to me walking home the other night when I saw a young chap pushing a overloaded bicycle up the hill that I don’t’ think I have (or can) effectively described the mindboggling living conditions and daily routine of the people in the slum I have been living for the past 2 months. I take for granted every day that what I see is the ‘norm’ but would literally have you gasping in amazement. There are dozens of goats roaming the many mountains of filthy stinky rubbish laying everywhere, the men who are on the verge of collapsing from pulling and pushing things literally 20 times their weight up massive hills and over numerous speed humps where they literally have to get a run up. The young girls (as young as 5 or 6) carrying their baby siblings on their backs like their mothers. Even the oversised trucks spewing massive clouds of black exhaust packed to the rafters with men going to and coming from work or the children playing in the gutters filled with rotten sewerage. What does surprise me though is that there are not many beggars – most of the population at least try to do something to make money, which is commendable.

Tonight I am finally heading to the Maasai Mara. I visited the family I will be staying with last week and very excited to be moving in with them and have my outfit fitted. :-)

I am due to leave Kenya Wednesday the 26th of May, merely 9 days from now. :-(

Zanzibar

Palm trees, tropical fruits, hot sunny days, white squeaky sandy beaches and crystal turquoise waters. This was how I pictured Zanzibar.

I arrived by bus in Dar Es Saalam on Saturday the 24th of April around 4pm and spent the first 30 min on coastal soil at the police station. Nothing serious, just an unregistered taxi driver I chose to use that was operating illegally on bus grounds. I watched this guy hand over what looked like an obscene amount of Tanzania Shillings before I was escorted by an officer to my accommodation (the YMCA). He seemed pretty damn shocked when I didn’t pay him cash too – unless in a life threatening situation, I simply refuse to encourage such disgusting bribing behaviour.

One night was enough in Dar, so I caught the first ferry across to Zanzibar. All foreigners were popped upstairs in the ‘VIP’ area that was fully air-conditioned and furnished with wide screen tv’s and leather lounges. Thankfully the water wasn’t’ too rough so I was able to keep what little food and water I’d risked down.

The first 2 days were spent in Stone Town, the capital. The town was nothing like I expected. Its cobble stoned, windy narrow streets were incredible. I literally got lost for hours – still my favourite past time.

Joanna flew in on Monday afternoon and we went straight to Nungwe on the Northern tip of the island. We scored a simple bungalow on the beach for a brilliant price being low season and spent most of our time reading and exploring the coast, when it wasn’t raining. It did manage to be heavily overcast or rain for the majority of our stay, but it was still a very beautiful place to be.

My plan was to be in Zanzibar only a few nights but plans change. :-) I had spoken to the volunteer organisation who mentioned they were having ‘problems’ with my pending placement in the Maasai, so if I was thinking of being in Tanzania another week, it wouldn't be a problem. With this I decided to stay on and go to the full moon party held in a neighbouring beach – Kendwa Rocks (a stunning beach about 35min walk from Nungwe).

Jo left for the UK on Saturday morning and ironically I met back up with Beth (also from the Gorilla’s) on the same evening in Kendwa Rocks for the full moon party. Aside from getting my only 2 pairs of shoes stolen (yes including my disgusting runners that I wouldn't have given away) we had a fantastic night dancing and didn’t get to bed until 5am!! We set our alarm and woke up with 10 min to spare to enjoy our inclusive breakfast and head down the beach for a swim. We talked and read all day. I now feel perfectly relaxed before heading back to the flurry of Nairobi. The 'Zanzibar' massages certainly helped too!

Of course, it's not uncommon to see a bunch of cows wandering the streets here, stopping the traffic or being herded by Maasai, but seeing them on the beach was rather cool. However, stepping in thier paddies late at night was not! I walked bare feet for 3 days before having to buy some new thongs at the local supermarket. I still cant' believe someone actaully stole my shoes! And my Aussie thongs!

On Monday, Beth, a few others we had met and I went snorkelling off the East Coast – OMG, and I thought the North was pretty; the East is in its own league. We snorkelled just off the shores of Meno Island – an exclusive 5 star resort that has security guards monitoring the beach and that will charge you an on the spot fine of $100 USD if you set foot on the beach (its’ around $1,700 USD a night to stay!). The whole East Coast is very quiet and as you see it on post cards. The fish were so bright and curious – they would swim towards me, lips sucking and eyes piercing into mine, it was like a game when they shot right or left just before sending me cross eyed. Not unlike me, I forgot where I was, smiled under water, choked and frighten the fish!

After an hour or 2 exploring the funky coral, we were taken to the shores where we had a freshly caught and cooked fish waiting for us with rice, veg and fresh fruit. We all sat under this cosy man made shack looking onto the pristine beaches – a memory burnt into my mind for life. A gorgeous day.

Being here a while and the friendly folk that we are, we got to know a few of the locals and one night a bunch of us were invited for dinner. It was part of a locals bar and we had this amazing vegetarian curry he served in a boat decked out in a chilled out regge theme (pictured) - fantastic experience. Africans really know how to cook!

I nearly didn’t make it to Zanzibar and extremely happy I did. Simply stunning and definitely the kind of place you could have the perfect honeymoon. Many of the beaches, weather and casual manner of the island people reminded me of the sunshine coast and wollongong. I do miss home but I am certainly not done here yet.

Last night (5 May) I crammed into a dalla dalla nursing my 2 backpacks and made it to the ferry just in time for its night crossing departure. I felt bad for the locals, but being a ‘Mzungu’ sometimes helps, I skipped the cue of 30 people or so that were told the ferry was full and had to go home, once again, I was ushered to the VIP area upstairs where the staff prepared a mattress for me to lay on for the 9 hour journey across the water. I was grateful to be on having no alternative accommodation. I took the opportunity to FINALLY write a few postcards and aside from the lady immediately next to me violently vomiting 3 times in the night, it was a pretty comfy journey.

We arrived at 6am and headed straight for the bus station for my long bus journey to Nairobi. Unfortunately I was a wee bit late (8 min), so missed the direct bus to Nairobi (they always arrive late, but do leave strictly on time), so had to get the bus to Arusha, where I am now. Tomorrow morning I will get a shuttle to the border, then a matatu to Nairobi, then local bus to Kawangware where I am staying. Should be fun!

Once again I have had the most incredible time travelling around but I am very happy to be heading back to Kenya. I’m looking forward to visiting the families of the IDP camp, the clinic and catching up with the other volunteers again. Only 1 more sleep!

Will write again from Kenya.