Zanzibar

Palm trees, tropical fruits, hot sunny days, white squeaky sandy beaches and crystal turquoise waters. This was how I pictured Zanzibar.

I arrived by bus in Dar Es Saalam on Saturday the 24th of April around 4pm and spent the first 30 min on coastal soil at the police station. Nothing serious, just an unregistered taxi driver I chose to use that was operating illegally on bus grounds. I watched this guy hand over what looked like an obscene amount of Tanzania Shillings before I was escorted by an officer to my accommodation (the YMCA). He seemed pretty damn shocked when I didn’t pay him cash too – unless in a life threatening situation, I simply refuse to encourage such disgusting bribing behaviour.

One night was enough in Dar, so I caught the first ferry across to Zanzibar. All foreigners were popped upstairs in the ‘VIP’ area that was fully air-conditioned and furnished with wide screen tv’s and leather lounges. Thankfully the water wasn’t’ too rough so I was able to keep what little food and water I’d risked down.

The first 2 days were spent in Stone Town, the capital. The town was nothing like I expected. Its cobble stoned, windy narrow streets were incredible. I literally got lost for hours – still my favourite past time.

Joanna flew in on Monday afternoon and we went straight to Nungwe on the Northern tip of the island. We scored a simple bungalow on the beach for a brilliant price being low season and spent most of our time reading and exploring the coast, when it wasn’t raining. It did manage to be heavily overcast or rain for the majority of our stay, but it was still a very beautiful place to be.

My plan was to be in Zanzibar only a few nights but plans change. :-) I had spoken to the volunteer organisation who mentioned they were having ‘problems’ with my pending placement in the Maasai, so if I was thinking of being in Tanzania another week, it wouldn't be a problem. With this I decided to stay on and go to the full moon party held in a neighbouring beach – Kendwa Rocks (a stunning beach about 35min walk from Nungwe).

Jo left for the UK on Saturday morning and ironically I met back up with Beth (also from the Gorilla’s) on the same evening in Kendwa Rocks for the full moon party. Aside from getting my only 2 pairs of shoes stolen (yes including my disgusting runners that I wouldn't have given away) we had a fantastic night dancing and didn’t get to bed until 5am!! We set our alarm and woke up with 10 min to spare to enjoy our inclusive breakfast and head down the beach for a swim. We talked and read all day. I now feel perfectly relaxed before heading back to the flurry of Nairobi. The 'Zanzibar' massages certainly helped too!

Of course, it's not uncommon to see a bunch of cows wandering the streets here, stopping the traffic or being herded by Maasai, but seeing them on the beach was rather cool. However, stepping in thier paddies late at night was not! I walked bare feet for 3 days before having to buy some new thongs at the local supermarket. I still cant' believe someone actaully stole my shoes! And my Aussie thongs!

On Monday, Beth, a few others we had met and I went snorkelling off the East Coast – OMG, and I thought the North was pretty; the East is in its own league. We snorkelled just off the shores of Meno Island – an exclusive 5 star resort that has security guards monitoring the beach and that will charge you an on the spot fine of $100 USD if you set foot on the beach (its’ around $1,700 USD a night to stay!). The whole East Coast is very quiet and as you see it on post cards. The fish were so bright and curious – they would swim towards me, lips sucking and eyes piercing into mine, it was like a game when they shot right or left just before sending me cross eyed. Not unlike me, I forgot where I was, smiled under water, choked and frighten the fish!

After an hour or 2 exploring the funky coral, we were taken to the shores where we had a freshly caught and cooked fish waiting for us with rice, veg and fresh fruit. We all sat under this cosy man made shack looking onto the pristine beaches – a memory burnt into my mind for life. A gorgeous day.

Being here a while and the friendly folk that we are, we got to know a few of the locals and one night a bunch of us were invited for dinner. It was part of a locals bar and we had this amazing vegetarian curry he served in a boat decked out in a chilled out regge theme (pictured) - fantastic experience. Africans really know how to cook!

I nearly didn’t make it to Zanzibar and extremely happy I did. Simply stunning and definitely the kind of place you could have the perfect honeymoon. Many of the beaches, weather and casual manner of the island people reminded me of the sunshine coast and wollongong. I do miss home but I am certainly not done here yet.

Last night (5 May) I crammed into a dalla dalla nursing my 2 backpacks and made it to the ferry just in time for its night crossing departure. I felt bad for the locals, but being a ‘Mzungu’ sometimes helps, I skipped the cue of 30 people or so that were told the ferry was full and had to go home, once again, I was ushered to the VIP area upstairs where the staff prepared a mattress for me to lay on for the 9 hour journey across the water. I was grateful to be on having no alternative accommodation. I took the opportunity to FINALLY write a few postcards and aside from the lady immediately next to me violently vomiting 3 times in the night, it was a pretty comfy journey.

We arrived at 6am and headed straight for the bus station for my long bus journey to Nairobi. Unfortunately I was a wee bit late (8 min), so missed the direct bus to Nairobi (they always arrive late, but do leave strictly on time), so had to get the bus to Arusha, where I am now. Tomorrow morning I will get a shuttle to the border, then a matatu to Nairobi, then local bus to Kawangware where I am staying. Should be fun!

Once again I have had the most incredible time travelling around but I am very happy to be heading back to Kenya. I’m looking forward to visiting the families of the IDP camp, the clinic and catching up with the other volunteers again. Only 1 more sleep!

Will write again from Kenya.