Wednesday, July 13, 2011

Maasai Burns

Last year, Janie and I received Maasai burns to our right shoulders. We each got the number of burns to signify the number of members in our families. This year Jane got hers redone as the burns had all but faded. You either earn the right to receive the burns or you can pay to get them done. We spent most of my time in the IDP camps last year and come to know a small group of Maasai people extremely well. Our good friend Alex (our lanky Maasai Warrior) offered to do them as a piece of Kenya to take home with us. We later learnt that although he had performed many before, Janie and I were not only the first 'Mzungu's he has done, but also the first females. He used medicinal leaves which he had to hike almost 5 hours to get. The burns are done by hand where he rolled each leaf into what looks like a cigar, they then light the end away from our skin, and blow the inch and a half long piece glowing red until it reaches and blisters the skin, strange to say, but one of the most invigorating things I have ever done. It was an absolute privilege. It took almost hour and they are perfectly unique - I have what I call 'my circle of life'. It is made up of 5 burns, each one representing the beautiful members of my family. Alex, who did it, now lives back in the Maasai, but last year did them in a place close to our heart - IDP Camps. The lady in the photos is the traditional Maasai Elder who re-did Janie’s for her in her home – another is the fire in her Manyatta and another is me with her 5 children. Their traditional home is tiny – they sleep 3 to a bed, smaller than a double bed size. Their beds are mud shelves with a Shuka (traditional Maasai blanket) placed on top. There are 2 main areas, a small room at the entrance where they keep their belongings including wildlife – there were chooks and her chickens and usually a goat or 2. Adjacent to the tiny room is another small room (usually not high enough for even me to stand tall) which has their stove and 2 beds either side for eating and sleeping. When we entered at 8.30pm, the Manyatta was warm but very smoky – our eyes stung for a while until we become accustomed. To be asked to receive burns from a Maasai Elder is a sign of respect. We are very proud to have them. It’s a little piece of Kenya we will have with us always. Wow, I forgot how cold it is in the mornings here, especially south of Narok. The days are warm and nights very cool. We took most of our own bedding, but it wasn’t enough. Janie and I had to spoon it was so cold. During the night the dogs at our camp and neighbouring, were absolutely out of control. Their barks were fierce and intense (I was praying my bladder would hold on). It wasn’t until the next morning that Alex told us that a Hyena had killed a sheep not 25 metres from where we were sleeping. And also frightening, it was less than 30 min after we had hiked back across the paddock’s after Janie received her burns. A sad loss for the locals and possibly a lucky escape for us.

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