Tuesday, July 12, 2011

Back in the Maasai


The trip out to South Narok (Ololulung’a) was long and dusty. It took 4 matatu’s and 3 hours to reach the IDP Camps (Governors, South Maai Mahiu) where we stayed the night. The next morning we headed off just before 9am, walked about a km to the main road where we got a matatu then headed into main street Maai Mahiu. It’s always pot luck with the timing of transport here. They wait until the vans are full before leaving then they pick up additional people along the way and packing us in making it a very stuffy ride. 4 random mixed vehicles, a 4 km stroll and more than 5 hours later we were visiting our friend Alex in the middle of the Maasai.

Rural Narok in the Maasai boasts a different kind of beauty. It is greener than I remembered but just as vast. I was so happy to be back to such a special place in this world, so calming, so inviting, and so primitive. It was hard to leave. Janie and I were grateful for the short few days we had – the Maasai is a place you could very easily get attached and not want to leave. Dalton (pictured with me) and I shared a silent special bond. He would not leave my side – wriggled his way between my legs to sit on my lap or hold my hand at every opportunity. He watched my every interaction. The hours flew by. A big piece of me was nervous to revisit Kenya as I know once again how incredibly painful it will be to leave. I wonder how much room there is in my heart to love. Every day I full deeper in love with the people of Kenya, especially the children who I know will die without help. It hurts.


Alex (pictured below with Janie and I) lives with his grandparents, sister, niece and nephews in a Minyata (traditional Maasai hut). They live a km or 2 from the tiny town. Not surprising, there is no electricity, no running water and few neighbours in eyes view. Polygamy is widely practiced and accepted in the Maasai community, although not everyone agrees with it. Alex’s sister left her husband and is now a single mother of 3 because her husband insisted on marrying another.


Chai tea is a given that it is prepared at any time of the day, but they often only eat 1 meal a day. In the morning, Janie and I introduced them to Peanut Butter and Jelly (Jam) sandwiches for breakfast – haha it was funny watching the kids taste it for the first time but it was a very popular choice. I wonder how long the jars we left will last them. At the very least, the empty containers will provide the children with playing materials. There are no toys, books, sweets or any educational material to speak of. They are often put to work early – it’s not uncommon to see 8 year old boys moving their livestock draped in the Shuka and sporting a large club, it is also common to see young 8 year old girls carrying babies on their backs and caring for the siblings. Alex is high school educated and hopes to support his niece and nephews down the same path.


We were the first Mzungu’s the children had seen and it took little Michelle a little longer than the boys to warm to us – hence the photo. As the first white people to visit their home and community it was a real treat for them and us. We haven’t had people stop and ogle like that for quite some time, perhaps not even last year. A very beautiful, pure village. I would love to go back there.

Unfortunately, most of the shocking, unanticipated every day events that occur here, we are unable to capture through a lens – for safety of sporting a $1,300 camera in public, respect of the locals or simply not enough time to seize the moment. Some occasions are difficult to explain and others are just too amusing to justify trying. Yesterday when leaving Narok, we fought our way through cars, bikes, people and 60 head of cattle being herded through the main street. Unbelievable. What is more shocking is that all the side stalls with beans and vegetables sprawled out on cloths on the ground, remain untouched!! How the cows manage to tiptoe around them is astounding.

It has only been 3 days since having a wash but it feels like 3 weeks after the dust and dirt we have encountered. Janie and I pulled back the covers on the bed we slept in and the puffs of dust were incredible – it was dark so we couldn’t see but we could smell and feel it.

I spoke to Moffat today who informed me that they had 2 births in the clinic while Vicki and I were away. Disappointed I missed them, but I’m certain there will be many more. I am looking forward to return to the clinic later today. I am excited to see everyone again and keen to see how the construction is going…

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